Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry for the poor quality photo, had to enlarge it greatly but you can see where a smear of 3-bond is needed to stop oil leaking from the camshaft section of the head out to the cam belt section. Oil can weep between the cam cap and the head unless there's a smear of sealant applied.

Easiest way to do this is after the cam is installed but not yet torqued down.

As mentioned I also wipe a smear of 3-bond to the seal's outer as they're quite a loose fit.

I couldn't find any mention of this in my workshop manual, but it's pretty basic stuff.

Any original Rb I've stripped has had a nice deposit of sealant in this spot.

post-73571-0-31142100-1411256188.jpg

Okay thanks guys will try this. Someone has already PM'd me and said to do this also.

My genuine Nissan service manual makes no mention of applying any sort of sealant to either the cam caps or the cam seals upon installation.

The sealant I have been using is a permatex ultra blue RTV silicone gasket maker.

No I was using my R32 printed engine manual as I lost the R34 one when my computer died. Both RB20/25/26 were the same but none of them had VCT so that may play a part in it.

Greased seals in with no sealant under front cam caps results in no oil leakage when engine is running but when I turn engine off it leaks oil.

Weird.

The manual I have definetly calls for the sealant. The nissan sealant is pretty much threebond from what I have seen. The orange threebond is the best but grey is fine as well. Can't remember what number/name they are though

Any chance you rebuilt the head before assembling the engine?

Did someone knock out the oil gallery plugs front and back and change to bspt/npt plugs when cleaning out the head properly? Sometimes if they aren't sealed up nicely when fitted oil can leak past them and run down and around.

It's probably not the case, but it's another possible cause unless your head is unchanged, stock form and you are certain you have identified the front cam cap area as the point of egress.

Head is completely stock. Had the cams out to get decked flat but then they went back in, didn't touch the valves etc. I'm very certain that it's an issue with the cam seals/cam cap.

Will report back tonight on how it's going.

  • Like 1

So it still leaks. First time I have had it out in the sun and now I notice that it also leaks down the side of the block not just at the front of the engine as well.

It leaks from the intake cam right around to where the second runner is on a greddy forward facing plenum, so between cylinder 1 and 2ish. Peoples thoughts on if it is still the cam seal that is leaking that it would be able to reach back around the block that far? I have thermos that push a fair bit of air so not sure if they would be able to blow the oil back that far.

n the side of the engine it looks like it's leaking from the block but at the front it's still leaking from higher up because the oil is running down the head to where the VCT solenoid is. I have put a small amount of liquid gasket on the VCT solenoid thread and also put an O-Ring in as it has a taper that looks like an O-Ring is supposed to go there.

Thinking of removing VCT solenoid and blanking it with a bolt? Will give a lot more visual access to try and identify leaking area.

Welded VCT feed in head and DID NOT block the existing VCT feed in the block. I'm thinking now that I definitely should of done this. Also running an RB30 cometic metal head gasket.

Any advice/thoughts appreciated at this stage. Supposed to get tuned next Friday :(

post-84937-14117051157169_thumb.jpg

post-84937-14117051278984_thumb.jpg

post-84937-14117051472973_thumb.jpg

post-84937-14117051665008_thumb.jpg

Did you weld the vct gallery or plug it?

What gasket did you use?

30 or 25?

RB25 Cometic Multi layer metal head gasket and RB25 ARP head studs.

Welded VCT feed in head and DID NOT block the existing VCT feed in the block. I'm thinking now that I definitely should of done this. Also running an RB30 cometic metal head gasket.

So now using a 30 gasket i think. Keen to find out the reason why only oil is leaking.

Edited by Stagea97

Based on the above quotes I am confused?

What vct feed in the block? The 30 block doesn't have a vct feed.

For reference for others, the 30 gasket is correct for the 2530 setup. The 25 won't seal by much around the coolant gallery around the front. It is only a few mm.

Sorry have been preoccupied with other issues. Yeah my mate cracked the rocker cover putting it on but it doesn't leak.

Turns out the external VCT feed line was leaking. I blocked it off at the block and nothing leaked a single drop of oil. Only ran it for 5 minutes but beforehand it leaked straight away.

Don't think I can be bothered taking the cam gears off again to fix it. Probably just run without VCT.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...