R34 Gtt Brake Improvement Without Breaking The Bank

[V28VX37]

My mate makes them for 34

I have one on my car and use it for the track on my 34.

He will ship to you, my bro has a cusco one which is what this one was designed around.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hamersley/brakes-suspension/r34-r-33-c-34-master-cylinder-stopper/1057636608

Thanks Jake that looks like what I'm after. I've contacted the seller, hoping to hear back soon.

[dontyellpl0x]

Just reading through this. Some great info here.

Just a question - Would it be so crazy to run two separate pads? Something more aggressive for track days and swap them back to a street pad when you're done? or will that cause issues with wear?

[V28VX37]

Just reading through this. Some great info here.

Just a question - Would it be so crazy to run two separate pads? Something more aggressive for track days and swap them back to a street pad when you're done? or will that cause issues with wear?

Not crazy at all, a lot of people do that.

However, I just found this yesterday, from Brakes Direct (GSL RallySport): The importance of machining or replacing rotors when changing pads

Basically if you go from one compound to another the recommendation is to machine the discs - not really feasible for just a track day or mountain run here and there.

Plus I doubt you're going to find separate 'street' and 'track' pads that would be of a similar enough compound?

After much contemplation I've decided to go with Remsa, I was really tempted by A1RM but I don't want the rotor wear or noise. Plus, it really is a street car at the end of the day.

[Chris32]

Interested to see how you go with those pads

[niZmO_Man]

My A1RMs are quiet. Haven't checked the rotors yet though.

[V28VX37]

My mate makes them for 34

I have one on my car and use it for the track on my 34.

He will ship to you, my bro has a cusco one which is what this one was designed around.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hamersley/brakes-suspension/r34-r-33-c-34-master-cylinder-stopper/1057636608

Thanks for the tip mate, this arrived quickly and seems like a quality part. Very easy to install, here's how it looks in the engine bay:

Haven't driven it in anger as yet, will report back once I do.

This is about half price compared to the Cusco item and I doubt Cusco is twice as good

[owen1r]

I was considering doing an the evo brembo upgrade, alphaomega do a dogbone kit to fit evo brembos onto 355mm evo 10 rotors.

Not a bad option considering you could get it done for under $1500.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Thanks for the tip mate, this arrived quickly and seems like a quality part. Very easy to install, here's how it looks in the engine bay:

Haven't driven it in anger as yet, will report back once I do.

This is about half price compared to the Cusco item and I doubt Cusco is twice as good

I grabbed one new of UAS a while ago in black for a similar price, does the job

I was considering doing an the evo brembo upgrade, alphaomega do a dogbone kit to fit evo brembos onto 355mm evo 10 rotors.

Not a bad option considering you could get it done for under $1500.

Tonba has a set of callipers up for sale on here if you are going down that path, the car has seen little use so they should be pretty mint.

[owen1r]

I've already just painstakingly painted + purchased slotted rotors pads and lines. too late now. Stocker R34 brakes seem to hold up quite well for casual track duties it seems?

Edited October 14, 2014 by owen1r

[34GeeTeeTee]

I've already just painstakingly painted + purchased slotted rotors pads and lines. too late now. Stocker R34 brakes seem to hold up quite well for casual track duties it seems?

Correct, with the right pad combo you can make them work real well actually!

Mine stops pretty hard now with the Winmax pads and DBA4000 rotors... They are chewing rotors but they have survived 4 track days now and still pull up hard... Will do one more Wakie day and then re-evaluate my braking needs as the car is predominately seeing circuit work these days, bugger all street duties...

[owen1r]

I've got DBA 4000s and A1RM pads seem good so far but will be tested on my first ever track day on the 22nd of Nov, however since bleeding the brakes they intermittently have a soft pedal... even after bleeding 4 times over!

Edited October 14, 2014 by owen1r

[34GeeTeeTee]

I've got DBA 4000s and A1RM pads seem good so far but will be tested on my first ever track day on the 22nd of Nov, however since bleeding the brakes they intermittently have a soft pedal... even after bleeding 4 times over!

You still have air somewhere mate, check it again.... Soft pedal indicates air in the lines probably....

I ran A1RM for ages, but once i started doing track in the heavy 34 they didnt hold up very well,,,, Burnt 2 sets of pads in 60 laps at Wakie

[owen1r]

Does the ABS need a bleed? If not I'll grab a pressure bleeder and run it for ages.

[V28VX37]

I was considering doing an the evo brembo upgrade, alphaomega do a dogbone kit to fit evo brembos onto 355mm evo 10 rotors.

Not a bad option considering you could get it done for under $1500.

I take that this is for fronts only? I'm not too hot on 'mismatched' fronts and rears due to potential brake bias issues..

Anyway back to the original plan, I've got the following kit ready to go on the car, just need to find the time:

• DBA T3 4000 Club Spec slotted rotors
• Remsa pads
• HEL braided lines
• Nulon Xtreme Performance Super Dot 4 fluid

Will report back once it's all on.

[owen1r]

I take that this is for fronts only? I'm not too hot on 'mismatched' fronts and rears due to potential brake bias issues..

Anyway back to the original plan, I've got the following kit ready to go on the car, just need to find the time:

• DBA T3 4000 Club Spec slotted rotors
• Remsa pads
• HEL braided lines
• Nulon Xtreme Performance Super Dot 4 fluid

Will report back once it's all on.

Yes only the fronts, I'm sure you could get some GTR rear brakes and paint them the same colour. If I bothered changing calipers I'd probably just go straight for stoptech/alcon ect.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Yes only the fronts, I'm sure you could get some GTR rear brakes and paint them the same colour. If I bothered changing calipers I'd probably just go straight for stoptech/alcon ect.

Talk to the guys running bigger front brakes, like Richo etc... No brake bias issues with the big fronts and stock rears... As long as the pads and rotors are a similar spec you should be fine! When i go for the upgrade the rears will be staying stock...

[gtr jet]

I run 356mm AP's on the front with A1RM pads and standard callipers on the rear with Bendix generals atm and there are no issues.

[V28VX37]

I'm just in the process of installing the rotors and saw this in the DBA instructions:

7. Fit new disc rotor to hub making sure it is indexed to a point with minimum run-out (using a dial indicator)

Do you guys normally do this? Is there a way to do this with feeler gauges?

[GTSBoy]

How would you measure run out with feeler gauges?

You measure run out by setting up a dial indicator so that it is normal to the surface of the rotor, find the longest extension of the indicator (by slowly rotating the rotor until you find it), set to zero and spin the rotor. The run out is indicated by the measurement on the dial. Doing this with feeler gauges would means having to bolt some sort of straight edge contraption across the face of the rotor, somehow. Mounting a dial indicator is bad enough sometimes. This would be horrible.

You can quite possibly do it by eye. If you cannot see much runout in any indexed position then they are probably all good enough. If one looks better than the others, then go with that one. You can use a pointer of some sort to help with the eye calibration.

[V28VX37]

Thanks GTSBoy. Sounds a bit complicated without the dial indicator. I assume that if the rotor was not within tolerance there's not much I could do about it anyway?