Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just bought r33 recently, and i dont trust the previous owner..

car is bone stock..

i just change all of the oil recently. engine, tranny, diff..

i use MT90 for tranny..

the problem its sometime grinding when i shift into 3rd gear, and sometime into 4th gear, but only happens on high rpm. it annoys me so much.

and when i change my tranny oil, i found some metal filings on the magnet plug but not much.

its shifting normal on low rpm..

is it bad synchros or worn out clutch?

those issue happens just before i change my tranny fluid.

if its bad synchros where is the recommended place in sydney and how much in total?

because its a hard job, if its clutch i can do it my self.

thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/
Share on other sites

I'd try some redline lightweight in it first. Having pulled a 25 gearbox apart, they are fairly labour intensive. I had a few shift problems and redline seemed to help, would be much cheaper then a box rebuild and it might work. For $100 or so, its worth a go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7390973
Share on other sites

I'd try some redline lightweight in it first.

The teflon can break down after a while and clag up the syncro's making them worse. I only use the lightweight shockproof in diffs and (evo) transfer cases for that reason.

I would be running fresh light gearbox oil, as someone may have just filled it on thick oil. They need to be able to spin up freely to mesh at those revs. You could try Dextron3 too before shelling out for a build...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7390988
Share on other sites

i havent try that surfs blood thingy. wanna try it, but i just change my oil.. huh..

btw piggaz i call them recently, they charge me 1700 for labor excl. parts.. damn expensive.. but the gearbox still attach on the car, if not idk..

i can remove the box and send to them but i cant reinstall it.. dont know how to lift it, kinda super heavy.. lack of tools..

any reasonable suggestion for rebuilding?

1700 excl. parts, better i buy rebuild second hand one..

Edited by thebuuuuu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7391256
Share on other sites

I've had the same issues and redline lightweight shockproof ( surfs blood) made them go away. Might not be a long time fix but, mine was fine for couple years after that.

If you really want to rebuild try Competition gearboxes

Pretty sure my syncros are screwed too. I put in Redline Lightweight Shockproof and it still grinds a little at first but once it's all warmed up it shifts fine. I just double clutch till it's up to temp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7391601
Share on other sites

By the way....I love threads like these. The synchros in my gearbox are absolutely thrashed. So badly that when it was first installed it would not engage any gear with the engine running until we swapped out the normal (new) oil for smurf jizz. It got better as it was driven, but the synchros are still thrashed.

And I NEVER get a crunch on a gear change unless I've made a massive fuctercluck** of it. All you have to do is know how to change gear to avoid the crunch.

**fustercluck - when you lose all muscular coordination and make a gearchange that a recently raped chicken could have done a better job of.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7391896
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...