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Hi everyone,

I've been a member for awhile mostly just browsing and reading different topics etc over the years, however I recently purchased a r33 gtst s2 and want to start a build. I have read a wealth of info most of which is very helpful and some of which get abit confusing and drift off topic lol.

Basically the r33 will be a car to get a project going to get a feel for the skylines and gain some experience before jumping on to a gtr and going all out. I've been involved with drag racing before and did a xr6t build which was good but I wanted to try something different and start a new project.

The r33 as it sits has the following mods

Greddy Front mount

Power fc

3inch exhaust

Hd clutch

Hks bov

The aim for my build is 600rwhp ( I know power is not everything but it helps to know where you heading lol)

I'll be doing full rebuild with Pistons, rods, cams etc

Greddy manifold with injectors

Upgrade the turbo not sure what yet

Coilpacks splitfires

Upgrade brakes

Suspensions not sure either

Fuel system upgrades not sure either

I need some advice on how to exactly go about it. I don't really have a budget but I don't want it costing crazy figures either.

with roughly 600hp what sort of suspension and tyre setup would you need to get it sticking? Mickey thompsons?

anyone here has a 600rwhp r33 and what sort of time are you getting? Any advice or experience anyone can share would be great.

Appreciate the help and advice

Cheers

Abz

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BC BR seem to be very popular, im yet to test mine out but give me a week or so and il let you know.

Otherwise if you ahve the extra $$ to sepnd get a good shock and srping set up, like the SydneyKid Bilstien kit

Fuel set up you need to decisde if oyu want E85 or 98 fuel. This will determine if you keen the Power FC or upgrafe to Dejetro ect for a dual map ECU

For rubber, up to you man test a few and update our trye thread :) but Federal RSR are popular with a good price tag

Stock GTR brake kit should do, again depends on budget. If you have the spare 3k odd then grab a good set of 8 pots and slotted rotors with braided lines

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Thanks for the reply guys

I was thinking 98 for fuel

With turbos is it best to keep with a brand name Garrett, Hks etc? or are these cheaper so called gt turbos worth a try? Is it a case of you get what you pay for?

I've been looking on prices and there's such a huge difference price wise.

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With turbos you do get what you pay for.....except for the few exceptions.

Examples.

Garrett turbos are at the top of the price range for turbos that are not pushing any performance boundaries.

HKS are slightly better than Garrett in some cases, same as Garrett in many cases. Have HKS tax on top of Garrett pricing.

Our own local friend Hypergear does a lot of turbo development for RB turbos and so his designs are pushing the boundaries of what is possible in terms of both response and power per frame size. And his prices are excellent because his overheads are under control.

GT Pumps and quite a number of other crowds that push out own made or modified turbos lie somewhere between those two extremes in terms of value and performance. Some push way past what Garrent stock stuff costs, but get you more performance - so value is acceptable. Just a little hard to swallow the purchase cost for some.

Ebay specials in the low hundreds are to be avoided unless you have little care about the result (both in terms of outright performance and what happens when shit goes bang). Anyone selling turbos claiming top performance at prices lower than Hypergear should be viewed with some cynicism!

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A bloke on here used to have a 500rwkw r33 gtst, he said it was fun to drive(when it could be tamed), however on the track, every corner he would be going sideways cause there wasnt any real traction when unleashing 500rwkw, stock cars would actually be on his ass during the bends haha. Before selling he switched back to stock and actually found it much more fun to drive(still running much more power than stock), since he had more response, and he could full throttle without the fear of stacking.

Anyways, reason i told you that was because you said you want to get a feel for skylines before getting a gtr, you'd probably enjoy just building the car for response, tweak the suspension, racing seats, etc.... rather than building a 600hp beast which will need a whole load of $$ to get it reliably making power on 98. 600hp would be more fun in a GTR than a Gtst (dont get me wrong, still fun in a GTST :D).

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I know exactly what you mean, traction was an issue with the xr6t build aswell and gtrs would be the best way to go but since I've got the gtst for now I think it can be manageable with a good suspension and tyre setup for the drags for the gtst .. I'm not experienced with rwd skylines as yet, so I'm basing this only on my experience with the xr6t and hoping to gain more info from this topic and other searches on this forum.

With regards to turbos and hypergear specifecally which of their kits would possibly deliver that sort of reliable power?

I heard bout them pretty much from this forum and gtsboy's post and had a look at the website

The highest rated turbo which I came across has 600hp which wouldn't equate to 600rwhp. Has anyone here used hypergear for a 600hp build and which setup have you gone with?

Would a manifold be necassary to go with the turbo or a direct bolt on would suffice? Also would the current 3inch exhaust be ok?

Cheers

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You will be trying for a long time to get traction in a Skyline with 600 @whp. No matter what you do with the suspension and the tyres.

You should PM Stao from HG yourself and ask what he can do for you. You should also ask his opinion on what 600 at the treads will be like, because he has pushed his dev mule R33 pretty far and lived to tell the tale. The tale is mostly about wheelspin!

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If you want to use this car as a practice before you buy a GTR, I dont really understand why you didn't just buy a GTR, start off small and work your way up to an extreme setup. You can do a forged, High horsepower engine build, then slap standard turbos etc on it. Then you are free to chuck a turbo at it when you want to etc.

Sorry I'm not being much help, but I dont really understand why you want to waste money doing it once on a GTS-t if your only going to go and upgrade to a GTR later anyway. I'm in too deep now that I can't switch to a GTR, the thought sometimes crosses my mind that I should have just got a GTR, but I like my car far to much.

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Agreed but I've got it now and got some parts already so I'll go through with it and see where I end up.

Had a pm chat with Stao and the recommendation was a hypergear atr45ss

Would anyone know if the standard diff are good for drags or that type of power?

There's Alot of confusion with the whole 1.5, 2 way nismo, kaaz, Cusco etc.

What's a good setup for the drags that's realible for that sort of power?

What sort of power can the stock diff handle?

Thanks

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The stock viscous LSD is a piece of shit and the sooner you find a Sims bin for it the happier you will be.

There is no confusion over diffs. You want to even think about putting 500-600HP you're talking a 2 way mech diff. Doesn't really matter which brand, although there are little differences between them that would perhaps make you choose one over the others.

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For drags a one way is fine, just make sure it is a proper machanical LSD

Without trying to start a GTR v GTS-t debate, they are two very different cars and what you learn about a GTS-t won't necessarily apply to a GTR and vise versa

This really comes down to how far you want to go into drag racing cause anything upto an auto GTS-t on slicks the GTR is winning

I've seen people spend more money and have more issues buying and building a GTS-t to run the same times a stock GTR with simple boltons will run

Have a look in the Motorsport build section for 2RISMOs build, that will give you some good info

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Ok so basically the stock diff needs to go. Thanks for that.

Where would I get a 2 way diff setup in perth?

buy one off the internats.. then take out your entire diff.. bring it to a diff specialist to fit your diff centre.. go home, break it in (according to the instructions) and then rip skids.

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