Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So is a PT6262 a good turbo for this combo? must be a decent size for a 3.2L to take 4000rpm to be spooled.

I hope it does not have to go to 4000rpm to be spooled :(

But I will have to wait to find out how this combo will work in together :/

Pete don't be ridiculous, it'll probably make 300kw at 4 grand so stop worrying :)

Is that all, heap of shit :)

Joey, I know what I expect from the car from what you, Paul and a few others have said, the others have their different opinions and as all of them have more experience with these cars, I cannot push my uneducated opinion and as a bloke that is an optimistic pessimist , I always go for the worst and it gives me more chances to be happy with the end result :)

At the end of the day, when it is done I will know , but i am happy with the run in tune, the clutch :wub: great advice! I can also notice the difference of the drive train, not sure how to explain it, it seems more balanced around the twisty stuff and as you know there are plenty of 35s in this area on an 80 limit road, so I get a little idea of how it is working .

Good to see you have it back and hopefully I will get to see it when final tune is done, would be nice to compair side by side with my 3.0 34

It will improve a good amount when they start playing with cam timing, if there is something CRD do well its cam timing, I still use the settings they did on my 32 from 8 years ago and they should have learnt more since then

Dave was pointing out the rev limit is to be set to 80,000rpm :)

Hi Mick, all good

From what you have said before to me and on other posts I felt happy having CRD do this work, they have always done a good job. I forgive them for the other shit :wub:

It is good to hear what you think about their cam timing abilities and your experience with them.

80,000rpm, :) WHOOOOOPS MISSED THAT :yes::rolleyes: those pesky "O" do not look like much, but :woot:

vids of beast starting and brief drive??? :yes: 3.2L of goodness

Not much of a beast at the moment, like it has a hand tied behind its turbo.

I was surprised at the difference the .6Lt made to how the car runs at low rpms, that was one of the results achieved , just have to wait for the rest.

I will do something after the final tune , do a vid and graphs.

Maybe have to get the support strut modified or get a slimmer type to fit as the motor height has altered, I think he said about 38mm after some engine mount modifications.

Couple of pics of the donk, as you can see no tower/strut brace

Not one of the pretty builds that are full of detail, just basic but as long as I get my results, who cares :)

post-52098-0-16679500-1426390460_thumb.jpg

post-52098-0-04219600-1426390517_thumb.jpg

post-52098-0-11367000-1426390583_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Looks very clean pete, I'd be happy with how it looks

just see if we can get the or another strut to fit, maybe it is not needed ??

Jim said they do not always put them back on ?????

Most likely custom strut brace which is what i have to do and i lowered the subframe by 8mm, needed depends on use of car, i like to track mine so its needed for me

The deckhieght on the RB30 block is 38mm higher then the RB26

Most likely custom strut brace which is what i have to do and i lowered the subframe by 8mm, needed depends on use of car, i like to track mine so its needed for me

The deckhieght on the RB30 block is 38mm higher then the RB26

I thought he said they lowered the mounts by 12mm or 18mm, not sure, but think he said it was still about 38mm higher .

I had made a tray system to stop the water going over the motor through the vents of the Z-tune type bonnet, the idea of water pissing all over the motor just seems dumb to me, so he had to cut a small section out of it to close the bonnet, easy to fix and does not affect it anyway, just have to do a few tests to see what happens with the water now if it is pissing down.

The photo shows the rain tray and the old strut brace

They are going to see what they can do with the strut when I go in for the final tune and if they cannot use the original one I will hunt one up. Seen a few flat types that should do the job.

Are you saying there are custom strut braces for these builds, if I need one where can I get it ?

post-52098-0-23200300-1426414301_thumb.jpg

A decent fab shop should be able to make you one up Pete

I'm sure someone can recommend a shop close to you

Measure the strut position this morning and it is OK, 3 inch clearance. The strut can go under the water hoses and I will have to modify the water tray to go over the hoses, DONE, well maybe , lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...