Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put in 2nd hand coilovers to find out one was blown and spring rates were higher than they were supposed to be.
made for a very unstable ride, very unsettling when the back ends skips sideways when traveling straight.

Put in 2nd hand coilovers to find out one was blown and spring rates were higher than they were supposed to be.

made for a very unstable ride, very unsettling when the back ends skips sideways when traveling straight.

especially if you are gunning it :(

my worst experience was not a modification, pulled an early model (I think about 1950 ish)Fiat convertible motor down put a new head gasket on, start it up and it would run for a minute and conk out, did this 3 times until I found a tinny tube in my pocket, stuffed around and found out where it came from and away in went.

Next day I went to work and on the way home a cement truck came through a stop sign and I went through a ladies brick front fence, through the windscreen and ended up on the bonnet.

Got off the bonnet , the lady came out of the house, had one look at me and fainted, shit I was feeling OK until then,haha

I win this thread. I don't even need to type.

Hi Greg

It must have been bad if you cannot talk about it :(

This is not a shop bashing thread, do not mention the builders name, just might help someone out if we talk about things that went wrong and why.

Pete

true story rant...

Took the advice of many and bought a set of Five-O Motorsport Redrilled High Flowed Garbage Side Feed Injectors. They were absolutely shit.. was unable to get a stable idle at the factory idle RPM and unable to get my AFRs to stoich.. Dead times they provided were absolutely rubbish, had to make up my own table to get the car to idle.

Even so, cruise was garbage, economy was garbage.. spray pattern? what pattern?

Anyhow, sold them on Gumtree - then spend $800 and converted to top feed Siemens DEKA IV injectors.. was awesome. I now cruise at 17.2 AFR and it runs perfect...

Moral of the story, side feeds are gay.

I would have thought with all of these power builds and people using the wrong clutches for for the power they have, putting stress on gear boxes, even what seemed to be the right combinations, going POP!

Advised to use the wrong turbo/s , fuel pumps,injectors, driveline, brakes that could not handle the hard driving and a lot of this does not come cheap :(

Then finding the right combinations to make it work for you but I guess it is also down to the driver in a lot of cases.Maybe high power cannot be contained for long ?

As a newbie at this, there seems so many different right ways to do everything and that also means many wrong ways to get what you want??????

I am and still trying to get the combination right to make me happy, taking out new parts, shit even a complete new forged RB26 bottom end, new Poncams B and other parts, maybe when you start doing these mods you are never happy and that is a worry , well :)

Fitted a bee*r rev limiter. Not to be hectic and spit flames, but because didnt want PFC fuel cut ruining the motor...

Read lots of hate on the net but thought if im just using it for ignition cut, how bad could it be?

Other than not working properly (doesnt like pulsar distributor+EFI setup), its made a mess of loom before the ECU.

Then my motor died from oil issues anyway. Good times.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...