Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The economy on my 2007 V36 SP Coupe is pretty terrible. I get between 13.3L / 100kms (mostly hwy, some city) to 17.4L / 100kms (inner city driving). I think the best ever (100% hwy) was around 12L / 100kms. I'm a mature driver too, I don't really fang it around.

Always run 98RON, 90% of the time BP, sometimes Shell. Other than economy car goes well.

Has anyone had any experience in doing some fuel tuning to increase economy? (i.e. like one would with a Power FC or Super AFC back my in my turbo days).

Anything else I could investigate?

David.

Been thread reading and seems a popular option is the Uprev, either ordered from eBay and DIY or through RevZone in Ringwood.

Can anyone comment on what one can reasonably expect from a stock V36 (with K&N drop in filters)?

Mainly I'm after fuel economy gains (and the switchable map mode sounds great - but I don't have Cruise buttons, could it would with other buttons?)

My best fuel consumption so far was 570km to the tank (about 70L) with mixed driving, city and freeway, so that's around 12.2L/100km.

I have short ram intakes, hi-flow cats, cat-back exhaust, grounding kit, new spark plugs, splitfire coilpacks and UpRev tuned.

Would be better to get any problems fixed before you think about a tune. Those figures seem quite high.. I am not sure what is normal for the V36, but they are far higher than what I get in my V35.

Does anyone know the best way to go about sorting this out?

I do service the car at a very reputable mechanic (TruTrack North Melbourne) and it's recently had brand new spark plugs and air filters cleaned. Tyres are near new too and I regularly check the pressure.

When I was working in the city, my usage was about 13-14l/ 100kms...peak hour traffic + city...you wont get good economy out of these engines considering they are pretty high revving. But your consumption does seem to be on the higher side of things. Not too sure how bad the traffic and city driving is like in Melbourne though. 100% hwy (assuming 100-110km/hr and going into the country) should get low 11s or even high 10s.

OK. So I just called around two performance workshops here in Melbourne.

They both mentioned the O2 sensor is the most likely culprit, especially in a 2007 car. The ECU doesn't get accurate readings so it overcompensates by dumping fuel. Hooking it up to a scan tool would easily ID if this is the problem ($80). Strangely, one of them recommended a Dyno to check A:F ratios and the other said it would be a waste of effort (as they want to check the car at 'cruise', not at full throttle).

Could this also explain some weird idling / low speed 'lurching' I've been experiencing? What are the common symptoms of a dodgy O2 sensor?

Edited by Haxorz

I had a failed AFR sensor (wide band O2 sensor) on my V35, but it only caused a CEL and poor economy, no other symptoms.

I would assume the HR engines also use AFR sensors?

@ sonicii - Yes, wide band sensors I believe.

OK, so I just got off the phone with Scotty from this forum (Scotts Customs). He was extremely helpful, knowledgeable and good to talk with - highly recommended for anyone needing any work done.

He reckons it's most likely a oil/dirt build up in my AFM. He says a dirty AFM will give poor economy and rough idling and it's also the only part of the car I've modified (drop in K&N oil based panel filters). He reckons it's a common issue with oil based filters (the wires end up getting covered in a combination of oil and dirty) and recommends I switch to cottom based filters. It could still be an O2 sensor (which a scan should pick up on) or manifold leak as well, but this is the cheapest thing to check/fix first.

Anyway, I'm off to buy myself a can of CRC AFM cleaner and give him a visit :)

  • Like 1

Ditto on the oil filters see if you have any dirt build up etc.

My 2012 V36 gets average 10-11L/100km 60/40 (City/Hwy) and drops down to approx 9/100km on long haul country (110km/hr) trips... But that's just the 7 speed working its magic. Good luck!

Alright... an update.

Visited Scotty last night, cleaned out the MAF sensors and checked for error codes with Consult. The sensors didn't look particuilary dirty but given their tinyness and sensitivity it's still worth doing. Turns out it's an extremely easy job on the V36 once you know how (and should be done after air filter re-oil, or better yet, avoid oil based filters).

Consult showed the O2 sensors working well. There were a whole bunch of logged error codes back 32 starts ago when my battery and alternator died and was replaced. These were all cleared to start afresh.

I won't really know if it's help until another 2 weeks or so of driving but I can tell already the car is much smoother on the HWY, like back when I first got it 4 years ago. I thought it might be a placebo effect but my GF noticed the same. I'll monitor fuel consumption and post the results.

For anyone looking for mechanical work in the Melb SE suburbs, I'd like to say Scotty is a great guy, very knowledgeable on the V series and highly recommended!

  • 3 months later...
Some good news. I did a big trip up to country Victoria and managed to get just under 700kms to a tank. Calculated fuel economy was 10.1L per 100kms, which is the best it's ever been by a good 100kms at least.


My 'bucking' issue on transmission downshift is still present though.


If you have used oil based filters and have economy issues I HIGHLY recommend you use some MAF cleaner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...