Jump to content
SAU Community

Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau


Recommended Posts

We paid $31k for ours, 1996 R33 GTS-T with 56000 kays. True M-spec I might add, not a car with add ons after the sale from factory. 

Ha Ha yea Duncan it's very amusing trying to explain to them about their cars, I get much enjoyment. One that always pops up is the Power FC, apparently they are junk, but they still get sold for big dollars.

  • Like 1
On 27/08/2022 at 8:44 AM, Duncan said:

Mate, there would be new skylines owners on these forums from American that weren't even born then...

Lol

I hope some Muuurricaaaannnnnn buys mine. 

I will then never own a Skyline again (I said that last time, and the time before I said I'll never buy a JDM shit box but ended up my 1st R33, now 2nd)

  • Haha 1
On 8/26/2022 at 2:50 PM, Neil said:

Sorry Ben, let me re-phrase that, I would have to be the longest single ownership person of a Skyline on SAU, Invoice date 06/09/2001.

I have you beat, Nov 99. What was the plate Duncan...HUJ-33 or something wasnt it?

462R32_Carpark.jpg

On 8/28/2022 at 11:41 AM, Roy said:

I have you beat, Nov 99. What was the plate Duncan...HUJ-33 or something wasnt it?

462R32_Carpark.jpg

Geez mate, they hadnt much earlier released the R34!

  • 4 weeks later...

Ha, well no progress lately so no updates. Given another upcoming wet summer I've been out on the tractor with the grader blade trying to get some driveway drainage in place, which in itself is an interesting challenge. And once that is done I'll have a few months of weeds to get ahead of for the same reason.

My guess is progress on GTR will be slow until later in the year. Kell is off to Great Tarmac Rally in a couple of weeks with Mel in a shitbox wrx instead.

  • 2 weeks later...

No work worth updating on the race car, dealing with some minor surface rust / underbody / chipped interior paint etc. As they say in racing, its "good from afar, but far from good".  I'm also updating mounts for rally gear in the boot like spare wheel/jack/toolkit.

On the other hand, the 100m of the 1klm of driveways I have done went awesome in the big rain :)20221008_142439.jpg

The rest, not so much.

  • Like 1

I did a fair bit of prep work before the rain and then we got less than expected and spread out so we actually faired really well, you guys got pumped (you are up blue mountains way yeah?) 

We're a bit south of there but same general area. This was the little river behind our place after 50mm of rain (back during the drought it took 150+mm for that)

20221009_082736.jpg20221009_083228.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1

We had water over our driveway from dam overflowing for the first time ever recently, only a few inches, but it had to fill the dam and overwhelm the overflow first. 

This was because our neighbours dam had blocked/spilled over, then he unblocked it so we had the overflow and the spillage coming at the same time plus the rain. 

The water table is defs full. 

9 hours ago, Duncan said:

No work worth updating on the race car, dealing with some minor surface rust / underbody / chipped interior paint etc. As they say in racing, its "good from afar, but far from good".  I'm also updating mounts for rally gear in the boot like spare wheel/jack/toolkit.

On the other hand, the 100m of the 1klm of driveways I have done went awesome in the big rain :)20221008_142439.jpg

The rest, not so much.

Throw in some side drains on the low side every 50 meters or so

Control scouring with rubble drains, and put in the odd culvert 

I build alot of unsealed roads with work, drainage will keep it open longer, but there is only so much drainage can do

 

erosion-sediment-control-unsealed-roads-field-guide-120410.pdf

Thats f**king awesome, thanks mate. I was just looking at the drains thinking they were going to need some larger rocks to stop erosion in the fast moving/steeper sections too, they are comparably cheap to bring enough of them in.

I've got a grader blade so regular resurfacing is no issue, I do need to bring in a massive amount of roadbase over time if I want to improve the actual surface meaningfully, but it is passable now, even 2wd in the wet

Culverts are a practical issue too....there are 4 places where I could do with them but that is a very expensive job - 2 lengths of pipe, excavator time to dig down, aggregate under them to keep them stable with a proper fall, headwall at both ends and a pit at the entry. For now I've just got a light ditch across the road surface at each location and just fill them back in every now and then.

We did put 2 proper culverts under the main drive - 4 lengths x 600mm pipe...cost about $8k but I've never seen them more than 2/3 full which is a win.

20220129_172959.jpg  Need to do the same under the mid dam road, it goes under all the time

20220129_172632.jpg

Just had the lower dam overflows dug out, looks like they are 2x300mm which is probably not enough for big rain.

All of which will seem like a hell of a waste of time and money in 18 months when the drought returns and we are watching the bushfires roaring across the hills 

  • Haha 2
  • 1 year later...
On 18/10/2022 at 9:15 PM, Roy said:

When does the airstrip go in for the Cessna Bird Dog?

Took me a while to answer that....

Funny thing is, the across the river neighbour did put in an airstrip, built a hanger, and buy a cessna, because strangely they aren't allowed to build a house on the property but there is no problem building an airport terminal :rofl:

They've used in 3 times, once for an attempted landing where they misjudged a little, aborted and missed the trees by so little that new underwear was required. Second time the landing stuck, then a few weeks later the plane left and never returned, so I don't think aircraft noise is going to be an issue.

Funny looking back through the last few posts too, I've spent a heap of time lately redoing the roads  and drains so I guess it is a 2 yearly thing to add to the calendar. Those big drains did overflow in the rain about a month ago so that is pretty disheartening....just a reminder that you can't stop nature I guess.

Uncle Duncan, send me some photos of the creek/drain/culverts, when it's low or dry, and also when it floods if you have any

Do you have an idea of how much water that part of the land and drainage would capture in a heavy fall

Does the whole creek/drain overflow up stream as well as downstream, or are the culverts the bottleneck, or is the water building up past the culverts and stifling the flow, or does the whole road go under

Are the culverts being blocked by dirt or vegetation during the event

A land survey would be handy to see where the upstream water is captured and drains down stream

I can roughly calculate the size of the drain and culverts required and speak to our surveyors and engineers at work to see what options there are

When it comes to culverts and drainage it all comes down to some math to work out what is required 

People often underestimate the size of a culvert/drain

In saying this I won't be back at work for a week or so as I had my right shoulder rebuilt 12 days ago

On 5/6/2024 at 9:40 AM, The Bogan said:

Uncle Duncan, send me some photos of the creek/drain/culverts, when it's low or dry, and also when it floods if you have any

Do you have an idea of how much water that part of the land and drainage would capture in a heavy fall

Does the whole creek/drain overflow up stream as well as downstream, or are the culverts the bottleneck, or is the water building up past the culverts and stifling the flow, or does the whole road go under

Are the culverts being blocked by dirt or vegetation during the event

A land survey would be handy to see where the upstream water is captured and drains down stream

I can roughly calculate the size of the drain and culverts required and speak to our surveyors and engineers at work to see what options there are

When it comes to culverts and drainage it all comes down to some math to work out what is required 

People often underestimate the size of a culvert/drain

In saying this I won't be back at work for a week or so as I had my right shoulder rebuilt 12 days ago

Duncan just needs to start an epic open pit mine, let it store the excess water for him.

Call it a dam and the authorities won't say a word :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...