Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Make Stock N/a Louder


Recommended Posts

:no: Some interestingly useless replies.

Lets start at the top. Your thread states you want it louder, yet in your post you want more power. Well a well designed exhaust may gain a few "nanowatts" but free-flowing exhausts on NA cars do not yield much gains vs turbo cars. NA cars need backpressure to make power.

IF you want to make the car slightly louder remove the resonator from the exhaust and weld a straight pipe back in, this will retain the stock muffler/s and will help you get noise/not power

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NA cars need backpressure to make power.

Fail.

Cover your nose and mouth then go for a run, that's backpressure.

The term you're after is "scavenging effect".

OP, your question doesn't make sense. Without touching the exhaust you won't get more noise and power... Unless you go ITBs with trumpets.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fail.

Cover your nose and mouth then go for a run, that's backpressure.

The term you're after is "scavenging effect".

OP, your question doesn't make sense. Without touching the exhaust you won't get more noise and power... Unless you go ITBs with trumpets.

Scavenging effect or more correctly exhaust gas velocity. Every engine want's as little back pressure as possible but NA's rely on scavenging more so the crossover of gas velocity vs lower back pressure is heavily in favor of gas velocity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When i had my n/a r33, i got a cat back exhaust system for 100 bucks including canon, cat and hot dog reso. Car droned like a mofo, so i bought a adjustable 4 inch silencer from ebay, and had it partially opened. Worked like a charm, produced a nice tone with minimal to no loss of power. Im assuming the silencer created that "backpressure/increased velocity" that n/a's desperately desire. In fact, im pretty sure it became a little quicker, i started to pull (ever so slowly) on my mates n/a 34 after the exhaust "upgrade". Anyways im just talking from my past experience.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

100 as stated will get you a shit exhaust which drones like a shit exhaust.
fitting a silencer (bottleneck) is not a good conter modification.

just get a decent exhaust proably a couple of hundred. and good headers maby another couple of hundred 2nd hand. maby 5-600 all up
after that just cam the thing

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

camshaft.
the only way to make an engine give more killawasps in basic terms is increase the fuel and air intake and get the waste out.

with either forced induction which in not your option here
make it rev harder

or increase the capacity

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or don't bother and wait till you get a decent car.

I don't understand why people say this. I'm not able to get my full license for over 3 years. Out of p plate legal cars i got one of the best cars in terms of power for my restrictions. May as well improve it and learn as much as i can before i go for a turbo car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

camshaft.

the only way to make an engine give more killawasps in basic terms is increase the fuel and air intake and get the waste out.

with either forced induction which in not your option here

make it rev harder

or increase the capacity

Camshaft makes the car rev at a higher rpm correct?

I've already got a k&n air filter. how do i increase air more than that? and not sure what mods will increase fuel flow.

increase capacity of power?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol says like we don't understand.

The restrictions are nothing new. I too had to wait. I too got an N/A skyline.

The best thing i did to it was nothing. It was a car i liked the look of. Why waste cash on mods that will literally do nothing to improve the car? and just ask for more cop attention? Complete waste of cash.

Put said money that you are going to spend into a savings account. And come opens you will have a heap more to spend.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...