Jump to content
SAU Community

Installed Apexi Power Fc D-Jetro, Engine Starts And Immediately Stalls.

Ramius83

By Ramius83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
Posted

Ok ok, before you flame me, I have read the Power FC FAQs. This is an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro for and RB26/30 in an S14. Engine starts and idles fine with the stock ECU, plug in the Power FC, and it just starts and immediately dies. I have turned the boost control feature off. I am using 1000cc injectors and have set the injectors to 44%. I am using the GM 3 bar map sensors, which have not been calibrated in the hand controller because apparently I need a dataloggit. I have the signal wires of the map sensors going into pins 27 (black wire) and 35 (orange wire). I have checked all power and ground connections, all are ok. Anyone have any incite into this? Would be greatly appreciated.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

The map sensor not being calibrated is the problem.

Being the sensor used to determine load how do you expect the power fc to know what's going on with the engine with it not calibrated?

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Yuh, it's like hooking the PFC up to the bench vice in your shed and expecting it to work.

mine worked fine when I did this. but it had a random cough so I replaced it with a haltech

  • Like 3
Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I thought it should still start though as load is also determined by TPS input. And I thought it silly that the Power FC NEEDS to have those sensors hooked up and calibrated just to start and idle. But I guess with it being older technology, it is what it is.

What if a sensor goes bad when starring the car 300 miles from home? That would suck lol......

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I thought it should still start though as load is also determined by TPS input. And I thought it silly that the Power FC NEEDS to have those sensors hooked up and calibrated just to start and idle. But I guess with it being older technology, it is what it is.

What if a sensor goes bad when starring the car 300 miles from home? That would suck lol......

Like any car if the main load sensor fails the car typically won't run.

It's nothing to with being old. Load is a function of the map sensor influenced by throttle position. how can you think it's silly it doesn't work without its main sensor?

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

The engine also determines fuelling based on its rpm input.

If that wasn't connected do you think the car would run?

;)

Edited by Ben C34
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Just sell it and buy something more modern.. but the time you buy the cable and/or datalogit etc.. blah blah blah and find out you need inputs for your wideband/flex sensor/secondary speed sensor you'll just end up selling it anyway

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Finally got a Datalogit installed and changed the MAP PIM scale and offset numbers on option 1. Changed to 6630 and 0 (off the top of my head) and she still just cuts off immediately after it catches during start up. Any ideas now?

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

I have had little luck getting my engines to start on the base maps for the d-jetro. I found it best to completely do away with the base map in the ECU, and start again from scratch. Its pretty easy to do once you get the engine to idle. To do that though you need to know how to set it up.

Turn on a watch in the datalogit, and watch Injector MS. Make note of what it is doing during initial starting and when it stalls out. See if it goes to <2ms or even zero.

Having a wideband O2 can help too, as you can see if it goes super lean before cutting out.

Finally there is the fuel/ignition lockout method. Set all your fuel base MS to 2.00ms for the 1200 RPM and below range, and ignition at 20 degrees for the same range. This will allow your MAP sensor to be ignored and essentially locks your fuel/ignition delivery with fixed values to allow you to get the car to idle.

Start the car, and note the O2 meter (if you have one). Increase the fuel MS for the locked out range gradually if need be (if it keeps stalling out). Once its running properly, you will be able to determine what the load point is that the MAP sensor will operate at when idling.

Then break out a timing light and set your base ignition to 20 degrees, and adjust your fuel again to get it idling nice. If you have no wideband, you can reduce fuel little by little for the idle load point while watching RPM. Keep reducing fuel while RPM increases until it stops increasing. Then add about 0.1ms.

Once you have it idling, you can adjust your MAP sensor Offset value such to put the idle load point at the second from the bottom load range. Turn on another watch, and monitor the PIM value. Use this value to modify the offset for the Map sensor to move the load point. Engines with stock cams will pull a -18inHG vacuum, so the second from the bottom load point is a good place to set it too. Larger cammed engines will have less vacuum, so set it at the 3rd load point for those.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

my suggestion

1. perform DATA INIT

2. turn car off

3. turn car to ON, but don't start it

4. set map sensor settings via datalogit (or hand controller)

5. set boost kit off

6. check SENSOR SW CHECK and make sure no sensors are black highlighted

7. start car and perform self idle adjust process (this is documented in the FAQ)

then it should be stable and it should idle

note the self idle adjust is meant to run for 30 minutes......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...