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I'm on the Mid-north coast NSW. I don't have any pics of it on my pc now, but will get to it. She needs a bit of work looks-wise (surface cancer is starting to get to it a bit) but it's still got original paint so I can't complain. Cheers.

Hey Guys,

This is a great thread, My dad will be really happy to know there is a groing source of info for modifying the 210 coupe.

ITS MY GREEN!

w00t w00t!

Very very nice, and i am very jealous, wish mine looked that good.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all,

Two things;

First is for Jimmy - I have a couple of decent bumper bar ends for the rear - if you are still looking for some let me know.

The second is I am looking to convert my C210 from auto to manual. Any suggestions? I am starting to think that buying a whole parts car may be cheaper than buying a box and related parts individually. I know there are quite a few boxes that bolt straight up to the L24, but are not sure what the pros and cons of each one are. Also does the pedal box from other models (Z, C, K) bolt up - or will I need to source another skyline pedal box?

Cheers all.

Drew

I just did this on my C110. I bought a whole car for the swap... and I do not regret it, even if I spent a LOT more than just the price of the car in the end. New clutch, machine flywheel, new bushes and bearings, degreaser (lots of), gearbox oil, new master and slave cyls, couple of jacks and jackstands...... it all adds up. Anyway, having a parts car also makes it easier for reference of how things go together. As does a service manual. The C210 should be similar enough to the C110 that won't need a new pedal box - just plonk the clutch pedal on the end of the fulcrum shaft. Don't quote me on that though.

Unless you're really hotting the car up I don't see why you'd bother swapping anything other than a C210/C110 (they're the same FS5W71B) 5-speed in... 280ZX box might have nicer ratios though.

Edited by Alfadog

Thanks for the tip. Im bummed that I just missed a new clutch and flywheel on ebay... Ah well, Ill keep on hunting around for something good - car or box. My car isn't exactly worked by the way: just some twin carbies and extractors - hopefully I wont be putting the gearbox under too much strain.

Cheers!

Hey, good to see that there is a hread for the "old girls".

Um yeh im pretty sure i have a c210. It is a 1979 datsun skyline, straight 6 2.4L single carby auto sedan.

Got given to me and my brother as a no your not getting motorbikes here take the skyline. Nothing has been done to it besides a sony cd player and 6 inch speakers in the back with carpet over the back dash.

Once i figure out how to put pictures up i will do it. I have only seen a few 2 doors here in adelaide and a few sedans. but mine seems to be the cleanest i have seen here so far. Not bragging but just IMO.

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Ld28 crank in an L28 with a 60 thou over bore will create an L30.

If only it was that simple... it isnt. You need different rods and pistons too.

A friend of mine had a C210 2000GT turbo (the L20 6 with turbo) 4 door , years and years ago.

The report of the C10 in a wreckers. That would be a rare find in Australia. Was it ever confirmed. Probably a C110.

  • 5 months later...

Hi guys its been a while since anyone has posted up here but its good to see the old girls are still around and that there are people to love them. Just to let you all know i have a C210 2 door in the for sale section (sorry for jacking the thread) but it would be better going to one of you guys than the wrecker.

Hey guys,

As I'm getting stuck into my C210 build, I went to the trouble of getting some manuals.

I now have

C210 Chassis and Body workshop manual

L24 and L26 Engine workshop manual

C210 Complete parts list with part numbers - every single nut, bolt and washer.

Cheers

Bobby

Let me know if you need anything from the.

  • 4 months later...

i have a c210 which is realy clean in yellow

wheels

exaugst

electronic ignition

suspention

allarm

cd player 4 speekers

and heaps more

i have got all the factory parts to turn it bact to stock

how much should i be asking for to sell it

  • 6 months later...

Any West Aussies out there with C210's and is the guy from Kalgoorlie still reading posts. If so I'm the other guy who had the burnt orange C210 in Kalgoorlie.Mine had 280z motor and triple 45 webbers.Do you still have your coupe in Kal. I recently picked up a $300 coupe and am in the process of putting in a 260z and 2'' jag s.u's. What's the verdict with the auto's in the c210, can they handle a bit power?If Iknew how to attach photos I'd put some up. When I'm finished doing it up[not pristine] just making it tidy enough to keep the laws eyes of it, I'll then take it back and show the car yard. They couldn't believe anyone would actually want to buy it. They had $600 on it but I convinced them that it had 2 lazy cylinders and told me to take it for $300, registered, new radiator and 4 new tyres.I was happy tho I've put plenty of time ,money and elbow grease into since. I've painted the engine bay black and may continue this theme around the whole car, it won't be flash as I'm doing it myself with no prior experience :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

Anyway if anyone wants to reply or no more please do. Ricky

  • 6 months later...

The first Skyline I fell for was the Prince. At the time I had a Cortina which served me very well.

Some time in the late 70s early 80s I remember reading in the SMH about a "Skyline Alpine".

It was because of this article that I bought my RMR30 Ti Hatch, complete with ski racks and snow chains.

Does anyone have a Skyline Alpine and what were, or are, they?

Be interesting to here cause I saw one today.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
a bit of an update on our front suspension.. i found out alot more about it today.. oh and i want to atleast sound a little more intelligent than my previous posts (doh! i have learnt a lot since then!, i am still learning though!)

when we first got the car pretty much the whole suspension, steering and crossmember where of C210 origin. It does bolt directly up.. but that isn't necessarily a good thing :P

when we picked the car up it had a massive amount of negative camber (around 30 degrees!). Nick (the previous owner, nixcars on this forum) gave us the original c110 crossmember too and recommended that we put it back in to fix the camber

we visually compared most of the control arms, and ended up replacing these two rods (sorry, don't know there names, they are both forward of the crossmember)

This seems to have visually straightened the wheels, though obviously (if you look at our site :P ) it hasn't been professionally aligned yet. I need to still double check the steering arm lengths though, but the crossmembers seem to be identical.

Brake wise we are running C210 height adjustable coil overs (one of the reasons we bought the car!), with Honda accord rotors (will measure the diametre) and 4 spot landcruiser callipers, picture here

hope this clears some things up, sorry it took a while to clarify

We will be selling this brake setup soon if any one is interested, as we need to move to something a "little" bigger :P . It will only fit a c210 strut though, not the c110 (not sure of the difference as we never had one!),

Hope this clears some things up for those of you interested

Kent

Thanks for all the good info, I recently picked up a couple '2' C-210s for 500$. And am tryin to put alittle extra power for the workhorse, as my Z32 is too expensive to run as daily driver.

Also I have read that while puttin the stoker LD28 crank into the L24 is good, the conecting rods are a little short for a high reving engine. The L14 rods are longer however freaking rare. Especially as you need 6.

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    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
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