Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This Thread is for any info we can find regarding factory specifications, Factory/Dealer options and variations.

I have been looking for ages and I can't find any online info on these apart from Japanese enthuiast sites which dont seem to offer much if any tech info.

I will edit this thread every now and then and remove any comments not relating to the above, and update any info obtained.

Thanks

Jason aka V8skylineMAN

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/
Share on other sites

So far here's what I have got

M/D/H R 30 front struts and brakes are a straight bolt on affair

Providing you have the cv joint rear end in your C210/C211 R30 rear swing arms and disc brakes are a straight bolt on.

L20et turbo gear(manifolds/turbo/plumbing/ECU) is a bolt on upgrade.

L26/L28 eingines bolt stright in and will also accept turbo set up from L20et

Ld28 crank in an L28 with a 60 thou over bore will create an L30.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-921653
Share on other sites

The C210/C211 classification of skyline came out in japan with the obligatory stovetop tail lights. But in the UK and Australia we got ugly rectangle tailights.

They came as a 2 door pillarless coupe , stationwagon(called estate) and sedan.

787479skylinecoupe.jpg

7874jc1.jpg7874jc2.jpg

7874kiku3.jpg7874kiku7.jpg

They also came out with varying models including :

280D GT

2000GT ES

2000 Ti ES

1600 Ti (L16 100 PS / 6000 rpm)

1800Ti EX (L18E 115 PS / 6200 rpm)

1800Ti EL

Ti

2000GT (L20 115 PS / 5600 rpm)

2000GT EX (L20ET 145 PS / 5600 rpm )

2000GT EL

NAPS

2000 TURBO

240K GT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-921726
Share on other sites

The C210/C211 range came with a few different lighting setups.

Headlights

*I think the twin rectangle lights may be a modification*

7874squaretwinlites.jpg

Twin Round is C210, Single Rectangle is C211

japan1.jpg7874nahama1.jpg

Tail Lights

In Japan, the four cyl models all came with the rectangle lights, and all six cyl models came with the stovetops.....In the UK and here we got the rectangle ones on everything :(

Black car is C210, Blue is C211 * anyone with a better pic, please pm me with it and i will replace these shoddy pics of my cars

7874c210a8.jpg7874my4door-r.jpg

Orange car is C210, Black is C211

7874eelrear11.jpgsrear.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-922605
Share on other sites

Drive train is only the same in the non-turbo six cylinder variants. The C210/211 came with a few four cylinder arrangements also. I think your manual would be of limited use, although some of it will definately be the same.....ie front suspension. Rear suspension is of a similar design in that it is a semi-trailing arm, but shock and spring placement is different, for example the c110 will have the spring in between the body and the swing arm, a la Datsun 1600, whereas the c210 has it atop the shock as per r30...

Is the manual you already have, for the 210 or 110?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-923762
Share on other sites

tim (sorry to sidetrack the conversation), how easy was it to fit the R30 rear end? just bolt up? or did you have to drill new mounting holes? what sort of diff is in the r30 anyway? i am looking at putting an R200 in ours, would the R30 be a better choice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-927861
Share on other sites

R30 diff is an R180(So is the C210's) but they are tuff as anyways...only reason to put an R200 would be for the lsd that is harder to get for R180's and for that lil extra strength if you are doing a LOT of clutch dumping with big rubber.....

Rear struts are straight bolt up....tailshaft is bolt up.the only thing MAY be the width of the rear subframe....but that shouldn't be a problem either.....

I have a complete rear clip for the r30 sitting in my shed ready for my C210 coupe.....havent measured it but cant see a problem( hang on,, im not tim.....I'll shut up now)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-927906
Share on other sites

The C211 heralded a significant change in the Skyline philosophy. There was no more GT-R , the highest performing Skyline was now the GT-ES(KGC211), which came out in April 1980 and was powered by the L20ET, a 140hp, OHC 2.0 litre turbo straight six, in reality a sleeved down version of the venerable L-series six, as found in the 240Z to the 280ZX, making this possibly the physically biggest ever 2.0 litre engine! The basic versions were called 1600TI and 1800TI now and featured L16 and L18 engines respectively, instead of the preceding "G" engines.

By June 1980 a 2.8L diesel version was offered.

Moving away from the swoopy lines of the C110, the C211 had a boxy and somewhat staid bodyshell. Not to mention heavier. The wheelarch extensions and spoilers were now gone, replaced by chrome trim and typical late 70's style "personal luxury", with a lot of fake wood. The Skyline was certainly not alone in following this trend, Mazda releasing the RX-5, the 260Z replaced by the 280ZX, and all sorts of good cars at the time like the Dodge Charger and Ford Mustang becoming chrome laden, velour-lined gin palaces for the disco generation.

The change in mood was echoed in the engine bay, the L20ET's lack of top end zing and its reluctance to rev marking it out as a touring car, rather than a sports machine. Certainly the awkwardly wide gear ratios don't help, with a very low first three gears, then a long gap to the relatively tall fourth and fifth. People who have driven one mention how effortless it is on the freeway, but a fast car it is not, cutting the quarter in perhaps 17 seconds.

It may be easy to poke fun at the C211 for losing the sporty looks and spirit of the GT-R's before it, but nonetheless it holds a considerable historical significance. It is, after all, Nissan's (and Japan's) first effort at turbocharging, spawning the long line of turbocharged performance Skylines, Zeds, Silvias, Cefiros, Glorias and 180SXs we've enjoyed since. The older S20 engined GT-Rs would never have survived the fuel crisis of the seventies, nor the tightening emissions regulations later on, so the C211 can hardly be blamed for changing with the times for survival.

Honda has VTEC, Mitsubishi has MIVECs, Toyota has its distinguished 4AG and 3SG twin cam engines, and Nissan bolts on a turbo whenever the need for speed arises. And all this started with the car you see above.

To my knowledge it was never raced seriously by the factory. Rather than devalue the marque, Nissan showed an admirable lack of oppotunism, by stashing the GT-R badge away, to fight another day. I wonder if the guys at Nissan knew how long it would actually be before a car would leave the factory wearing the famous red "R".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-928245
Share on other sites

R30 rear end was a straight up BOLT IN job !!! I actually busted a rear trailing arm and could not source any C210 parts, I tried bolting the R30 Arm onto the C210 Cross member but the toe and Camber was Waaaaaay out so in went the whole rear end !!!

biggest advantage for me was Discs and CV-Type driveshafts, no more broken Half shafts !!!!! These shafts are very strong !!! I still use the R180 Diff, these are quite strong and much lighter than the R200.

Cheers

TG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-929803
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I dont remember if mine had an electronic dizzy....the R30 does. If the c210 does have an elec dizzy then grab it cos yes it will fit straight in.

Depends what you need......is yours 5speed? if not his might be...basically the whole drivetrain will bolt right in....suspension probably wont, but i know that the front control arms are a fair bit longer and will fit....that will give you HEAPS of camber in the front....ask the guys on the "project 240k" thread....they should be able to tell you how much camber it was as they had c210 arms in theirs(they took them out tho)

Not sure on front strut lengths so you should measure yours against his....his might be a bit shorter and thefore lower your car slightly.

As far as i know the brakes are all the same.

Was the c210 a coupe?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-945495
Share on other sites

I am not sure how much of the front of ours is C210, I am pretty sure most of it is (though we have coilovers and different brakes), there is a bar that is too long for the c110, once we replaced that with the original it seems fine (it was around 30 degrees of camber before)

check out the day 2 pictures, there are a few photo's of the suspension there..

Kent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-948690
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

no photos of rear suspension there....

your springs ARE in between the trailing arm and the body, aren't they?

if so....coilovers or strut tower transplant are in order to fit the r30 spring/shock assembly to a C110

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-977183
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

a bit of an update on our front suspension.. i found out alot more about it today.. oh and i want to atleast sound a little more intelligent than my previous posts (doh! i have learnt a lot since then!, i am still learning though!)

when we first got the car pretty much the whole suspension, steering and crossmember where of C210 origin. It does bolt directly up.. but that isn't necessarily a good thing :D

when we picked the car up it had a massive amount of negative camber (around 30 degrees!). Nick (the previous owner, nixcars on this forum) gave us the original c110 crossmember too and recommended that we put it back in to fix the camber

we visually compared most of the control arms, and ended up replacing these two rods (sorry, don't know there names, they are both forward of the crossmember)

This seems to have visually straightened the wheels, though obviously (if you look at our site :() it hasn't been professionally aligned yet. I need to still double check the steering arm lengths though, but the crossmembers seem to be identical.

Brake wise we are running C210 height adjustable coil overs (one of the reasons we bought the car!), with Honda accord rotors (will measure the diametre) and 4 spot landcruiser callipers, picture here

hope this clears some things up, sorry it took a while to clarify

We will be selling this brake setup soon if any one is interested, as we need to move to something a "little" bigger :(. It will only fit a c210 strut though, not the c110 (not sure of the difference as we never had one!),

Hope this clears some things up for those of you interested

Kent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-985858
Share on other sites

Some parts for sale here if your interested (not mine):

http://www.ozdat.com/classifieds/view.php?...s&searching=yes

C210's sold in Oz had a points dizzy only, R30's were the first with electronic ign. 280ZX uses the same electronic dist as R30's and both will bolt straight onto any L6 engine....of course you also need to change the coil and remove or bypass the ballast resistor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45219-c210c211-skylines/#findComment-989379
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...