Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i need all your advice lol

So i currently am running greddy t517zs/10cm housings on my 34 with a fully built 2.6 litre motor... 8:5:1 compression, forged pistons,rods, type b poncams,cam gears,e85...the list goes on. I made 403kw on 22psi as the injectors were maxed out.

The thing doesn't hit boost until 4000rpm and full boost at 6000rpm and drops off at 8000rpm. Now i do like the turbos but i hate that they are quite laggy. Im after response and still want to hold good power.

Im thinking of getting the -5s and putting KTS billet compressor wheels in them and going from there but I've also heard good things about the HKS KAIs.

The car is purely a street car, i do drive in the hills a bit but i don't do track days or drags etc. Like i said i want good response and still want to hold the power.

Please help me my fellow GTR guru's

Edited by wogzilla34

Why not go to 8cm housings instead? Might be the cheapest way out to pick up some response and the tune will probably only need a tickle up which may keep costs down too.

The 5's will be the most responsive out of your options there.

Are you purely a twins kinda guy?

Edited by Mick_o

I have thought about going the 8cm housings as that is an option. And yes its twins only for me mate...i hate big singles on GTRs unless they are purely set up for drags i think singles are pointless

Its more fun with twins

Edited by wogzilla34
  • Like 1

Thing is those turbos are pretty big for a 2.6L & stock compression ratios. Even changing housings may only net you 500-600rpm (being optimistic) which still only brings you down to 5500.

The 5's will net you over 1000rpm of response and probably pick up another 20 or 30kw up top if ya setup is good :)

Why not go to 8cm housings instead?

Problem is he will lose the power in the top end. If going to 8cm housings, better off just putting -9s on and have the most blistering response possible for the 330-340rwkw marker. (Although with 8cm it should make a tad more).

517s have never been as good as -5s... I don't think saying you can pick up 1,000rpm response is entirely accurate by the same token. They start coming on by 4,000rpm as his 517s, they are just "all-in" if you will, a lot sooner depending on the setup.

Have been in two cars now that went from 517s to -5s - it's a noticeable difference...

Although really, 20psi or more should be well and truly in by 5,000rpm so me thinks issues with cam set-up as per Piggaz comments are heading towards. Would start there before pulling turbos off, you might find a fix without going through a 3.5-4k expenditure.

I'm not being smart or an expert but when I'm thinking of turbo's and what my future build with.

I found a topic that I enjoyed and most post with pictures.

read the line graphs see what you want, theirs over a 1000 posts

Read all you will definitely find someone with same setup that you desire

And reading the charts you can really see when high HP turbo's kick in>_>

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

As someone that ran an 8cm , 10cm and 12cm housing on the same 2L engine and a TD06 I can tell you the 12cm housing made no more powre than the 8cm. Just wasy waaaaay laggier. Changed to 2.5L and the 12cm was still too big.

My point, changing from win 10cm housing to 8cm will be fine and make the car far better. When I went from 10cm TD06-20G on my RB20 to 8cm this was the difference

462Dyno5.jpg

Dyno_RacePace.jpeg

So go to the 8cm...all imo

What dumps and exhaust?

If the back end is restrictive, it can greatly affect it.

Going off what you have listed, I'm assuming theyre done, but you know what they say about assuming.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...