Rb20 Wastegate On Rb25

[hardsteppa]

To avoid being flamed ypu should just do a bit more searching then come back with any q's ypu will find this sort of info already. And no u would ditch the standard solenoid and just use kinugawa gate.

Although i use a kinugawa gate and greddy profec, but thats a different story to stock.

[DoseVader]

Yes the standard soleniod will f**k your shit up if you want to adjust boost

Edited February 6, 2015 by DoseVader

[Ben C34]

As you are having trouble, to make it easy just pull off the waste gate line to unlock free power mode. Factory secret.

[DoseVader]

As you are having trouble, to make it easy just pull off the waste gate line to unlock free power mode. Factory secret.

100psi ahahahahha

[self_slaughter]

Waits for "I've done the free power mode mod and now my turbos exploded thread"

[GTSBoy]

Just point him to the VERY high flowed turbo thread.

[Missileman]

I just received my Kando adjustable waste gate actuator and it's a piece of shite, lovely machined and built, just poorly designed. Even with a 1 Bar spring, it has less spring pressure than the stock RB20 actuator. The point of difference is the size of the diaphragm, the Kando is 45mm and the RB20 is 60mm.

60mm Ø = 2.36 inches, π r² = 4.37 square inches x 10psi = 43.7 lbs spring

45mm Ø = 1.77 inches, π r² = 2.46 square inches x 14.5psi = 35.7 lbs spring

Clearly, if you are going to use a bleed valve, electronic or manual, you are better off with the RB20 actuator.

[hardsteppa]

Have you tried it out yet though or judt theorizing at this point? For i found the kinugawa to be much stiffer and hold wastegate closed much better, so much i had to get a lower psi spring into it.

[zoomzoom]

I just received my Kando adjustable waste gate actuator and it's a piece of shite, lovely machined and built, just poorly designed. Even with a 1 Bar spring, it has less spring pressure than the stock RB20 actuator. The point of difference is the size of the diaphragm, the Kando is 45mm and the RB20 is 60mm.

60mm Ø = 2.36 inches, π r² = 4.37 square inches x 10psi = 43.7 lbs spring

45mm Ø = 1.77 inches, π r² = 2.46 square inches x 14.5psi = 35.7 lbs spring

Clearly, if you are going to use a bleed valve, electronic or manual, you are better off with the RB20 actuator.

Im using a kinugawa as well, and I have noticed the pressure values of the springs don't actually correspond to what pressure your turbo will produce.

However I don't think that should be a problem, just experiment with the different springs available to get the closest one below your target boost. I have a hypergear standard 21u highflow (which means a larger wastegate flap, therefore more force on the gate) and the kinugawa actuator set with about 3 turns of preload. With the 0.8 bar spring it held around 0.6 bar of turbo pressure. Even at that modest spring pressure it has no problem holding wastegate in conjunction with boost control.

The benefits over a factory actuator is the ability to change spring pressure, adjust preload and greater actuation length (which is helpful if you get some boost creep up high revs due to practice of widening the mounting holes on the bracket and adding preload that way)

[zoomzoom]

One big drawback is I had to make a completely new custom bracket to hold the kinugawa actuator, the supplied one did not fit on the turbo .

[Missileman]

A bit of both, theory and practical, just holding the actuator in one hand and pulling on the shaft to compress the spring, you can easily notice the wimpy spring in the Kando, Have test fitted it to my spare turbo, and agree with zooomzoom it did need fettling in order to fit properly.

Also disassembled the actuator to check that Kando put the correct spring in there, and according to his colour scheme (yellow=1Bar) it does have the spring I ordered.

Not even going to bother fitting it to the car, let alone wasting dyno time on it, I have enough confidence in my engineering and maths to know whats what.