Jump to content
SAU Community

Is My Car F****d ? Urgent Help

re34perGTT

By re34perGTT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

re34perGTT Community Regular

re34perGTT

Posted
Posted

Hi all

I'm doing a boost controller and fmic instal link http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454062-car-making-0-boost-after-ebc-and-fmic-install/

It wasn't working and I decided to take off the fmic and put the smic back on

I did this then started my car. The stock boost sensor was working now and it climbed slightly. I revved my car and the greddy ebc got to around -99. I stopped revving it and switched my car off and the turbo timer kicked in. While this happened it sounded like the car died then started back up then died and started back up. It was like a sort of stop stutter thing. I ran to pull the negative terminal out the battery to make it stop. There was slight grey smoke coming out of the engine at this point too.

Car was going fine before I removed the fmic I just put in and installed the smic.also I didn't tighten any hoses which connect the afm or smic as I was going to take it off again shortly.

Can someone please help. I'll try find a mechanic that can help but please can someone give some help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454075-is-my-car-fd-urgent-help/
Share on other sites
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't stress over it, id put the fmic on and tighten all pipes properly, then just set up wastegate as stock until you can figure out or find some to install it properly..

it would be stalling because the pipes were loose, so a vacuum leak

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Replace the short, un-teed piece of hose to your fuel pressure reg, the way it was before you did the EBC install and never touch that line again.

Put the original hoses for boost control back. Make sure all your IC pipe clamps are tight.

See what it does then.

Oh, and f**k that turbo timer off. You don't need it. No-one has ever needed one. Just do the turbo cool down manually. And they are illegal anyway.

  • Like 1
re34perGTT Community Regular

re34perGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay cheers guys. I did freak the f**k out a bit aha. If I re connect the fuel pressure regulator the way it was then how would I wire in the boost controller ? Also I know about the turbo timer but when I purchased my car it had one and I have no clue where it is ? Started to think gtt's came stock with a built in one because I have no clue where it is and I was told the car was completely stock upon purchase (which besides a pioneer head unit it was)

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

As above Put the FMIC back in and make sure all the hoses are tight and remove the T from the fpr line. As for a boost source - the line you blocked off on the bov return pipe was for the bleed line - you must have had another line to supply boost to the original boost solenoid (normally from the pipe going to the intercooler).

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The factory boost sensor is connected to the back end of the plenum. That's the BEST place to get a signal for other gauges or EBC on a Skyline. The EBC install manuals only tell you to use the FPR signal line because that one is available on pretty much every car. Even if it isn't the smartest option.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

It shouldn't be that hard to connect a EBC, it needs a source of pressure, it needs to be connected to the wastegate, then it needs to be able to bleed that pressure off, simple as that..

on my apexi, one end of the solenoid has the tube connected to the FPR, other end to the wastegate, simple as that, the solenoid has its one hole to bleed pressure off and control boost, the electrics plug in to controller and that's it..

Edited by AngryRB
re34perGTT Community Regular

re34perGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm located in Perth and I think I solved the problem with the car stuttering but there's still no boost. My cars drivable now so I think I'll just drive it to a workshop to fix it up then tune my ebc on their dino and get a tune while I'm there. Thanks for the help guys !

GTofuS-T Grand Master

GTofuS-T

Posted
Posted

Also I know about the turbo timer but when I purchased my car it had one and I have no clue where it is ?

Do you have an alarm/immobilizer installed? Some of them have a built in turbo timer, so find your model / manual and have fun trying to reprogram it, usually a sequence of turning the key on/off a million times at exact intervals.. haha... good fun...

re34perGTT Community Regular

re34perGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I bought it from a dealer so legally there needs to be an immobilizer but I have no clue on what one it is. I'll have a look at it later and try see if I can disable it because it's annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...