Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i've got an Innovative wide band sensor and gauge to suit ( basic option ), i've set it up, calibrated it and its been working fine for 3-4 months, although now i'm getting random readings through out the air fuel ratio.

the gauge might display correctly for a little bit then will hunt from 8 to 22.1 and get stuck on 22.1 until the car is restarted and no the car doesnt lean out and stall when this happens.

i took out the sensor from the dump pipe and re-calibrated it which only fixed it momentarily and the problem came back after a day or two.

i'd like to know people's thoughts/ ideas on this issue ?

How far from the turbo outlet is the sensor?

just on the factory bung atm so right next to turbo outlet , will weld a bung at the end of the front pipe when i get round to it.

dont see how that could be a major problem as a few new cars run wideband from factory

If you have a laptop and cable try reprogramming it through LM programmer. Also check all your earth wires to it are secure.

i only re-calibrated the sensor by removing it and unpluging as the procedure, will try it through the laptop setup as i did a few months ago

Edited by Dan_J

I thought you had to tell it you were doing free air calibration but im no innovate expert

I would put the bung in pre cat (as per the installation manuals reccomendations) and go from there. You may need to buy a new sensor, for the money they cost and the peace of mind will be well worth it.

I know innovates had some issues a few years ago but cant remember if it was a problem with the sensor or the rest of the system. Dont think this is the issur but thought it was worth mentioning.

just on the factory bung atm so right next to turbo outlet , will weld a bung at the end of the front pipe when i get round to it.

dont see how that could be a major problem as a few new cars run wideband from factory

Too hot too close to the turbo. It could be getting upset and throwing the controller into a panic/confusion. Modern OEM widebands are not necessarily that close to turbo outlets!

just on the factory bung atm so right next to turbo outlet , will weld a bung at the end of the front pipe when i get round to it.

dont see how that could be a major problem as a few new cars run wideband from factory

Innovate says to place the sensor at least 60cm downstream from the turbo. Its best to place it just before the cat (any closer to the turbo and you're under the passenger footwell). There is a bit more of a cavity in the body around the cat area. It can be very tricky to get the exact angle, but you want it pointing as vertical as possible so that condensation doesn't sit in the sensor.

Is this the Innovate MTX-L?

If so, I think there's an issue with the design of the gauge causing it to kill sensors. I'm on my 3rd gauge and 2nd sensor in under 2 years.

Not to mention the car doesn't get driven often.

I've read on evolutionm that the gauge overheats the heater inside the sensor causing premature death.. at the same time the gauge will often die too.

Luckily I bought mine through a local dealer (Game On Motorsports) so I had local support/warranty.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...