Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've got a KLS power spirit turbo A/R .63 running around 15 psi at the moment. I was thinking of getting a new turbo but I've been reading lately that they're actually not too bad and can handle 350-450 hp range and should provide 230.5kW at 12psi. I've got all the other usual mods, ecu, splitfire, fmic, turbo back etc etc. was just wondering if it's worth upgrading to a garrett 3706 or kinugawa tdo6 or just keep this turbo and work top end. Thanks in advance for any advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455565-turbo-options/
Share on other sites

Hey guys, I've got a KLS power spirit turbo A/R .63 running around 15 psi at the moment. I was thinking of getting a new turbo but I've been reading lately that they're actually not too bad and can handle 350-450 hp range and should provide 230.5kW at 12psi. I've got all the other usual mods, ecu, splitfire, fmic, turbo back etc etc. was just wondering if it's worth upgrading to a garrett 3706 or kinugawa tdo6 or just keep this turbo and work top end. Thanks in advance for any advance

fail highlighted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455565-turbo-options/#findComment-7512892
Share on other sites

Well, the thing that interested me was the precision of the estimate of how much power the KLS should make at 12 psi. I mean, quoting power to 1 decimal place shows a lot of confidence.

But, apart from us being snide, you haven't told us what engine. 20, 25, 26, 30? Or something else? Also, no mention of if the power levels you're talking about are at the flywheel or on the road. We can guess, but we could just as easily be wrong.

And I think you can take it for granted that with very few exceptions, eBay turbos like the KLS thingo (I can't help hearing

when I read that) are generally poorly matched not quite good turbos.

I suggest that you look for the Hypergear thread for some guidance on what can be done in the $1k region.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455565-turbo-options/#findComment-7513194
Share on other sites

Thanks GTSBoy, it's a 25det and had dyno paper at 220Kw in 2013, lost the paper though. Well that's the worry, who knows how credible their information is,thought I would ask. So as a starting point, would you recommend me changing the turbo or working top end, eg injectors, cams etc. and what would make the most difference performance wise ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455565-turbo-options/#findComment-7513405
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...