Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can't believe that there aren't gains available from larger cams...call me crazy, but here are the factory specs:

BNR32 RB26DETT Solid

Intake duration 240°

Exhaust duration 236°

Intake lift 8.58

Exhaust lift 8.28

Preset valve timing INTAKE 113°

Preset valve timing EXHAUST 125°

And here are some Tomei "drop-in" examples:

Type A

Intake duration 260

Exhaust duration 252

Intake lift 9.15

Exhaust lift 9.15

Type B

Intake duration 260 (same intake as type A)

Exhaust duration 260

Intake lift 9.15

Exhaust lift 9.15

* Type A
Designed to best suit the stock & N1 turbos for optimum performance balance of low to mid range torque.
The Exhaust cams duration was reduced to maintain best idling.
* Type B
By extending the duration timing compared to the Type A Poncams, both response and peak power was raised and these camshafts best compliment the mid to large size turbo charged applications.

How can one say that they won't make more horsepower with more duaration and lift? surely this is a myth?! Perhaps the gains aren't there with some turbo / valvetrain setups, but I assure you there will be a powerband difference between STOCK, A and B in nothing more than lift alone.

Now, does everyone have the mods to support the flow / overlap? Who knows.

My experience with streetcars with turbos and cams, stay on the small side of duration. I chose Poncam A's for my 2.75L stroker motor with ported head, +0.5mm SS valves, retainers, springs, etc. Just wanted a touch more duration and lift than factory. I won't be able to tell you what they do different, but then again, I'm pretty extreme on setup with BW 8374EFR turbo and all.

Edited by HarrisRacing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456095-cam-choice/#findComment-7523314
Share on other sites

Change the cams when you change the capacity of the engine or you are going for a hell of a lot more power then the -9 will ever make

R34 brembos can be made to fit you just need to drill out the holes on the r32 front hub so that the bolts fit thru

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456095-cam-choice/#findComment-7523316
Share on other sites

You are right there will be a power band difference it all move to the left and causes the car to drive worse then it needs to for the power they give, the other issue with all these "drop in" cams is they never have enough lift for the increased duration, which causes them to lower dynamic compression even more then a properly designed cam shaft

We have made the mistakes of using all these parts and know first hand what their benefits/flaws are, a lot of people get caught up in the fact they fitted these pieces of junk and made 5-10kw but forget they lost 20kw out of the bottom end of the rev range where you spend most of your time actually driving the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456095-cam-choice/#findComment-7523317
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...