Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Long story short, I got this RB26 EFR 83/74 build going on, but due to too many '' bad luck'', I kinda lost interest in my R32 GTR after owning it for 7 year.

With that said thought, I bought a brand new Nismo front LSD 1.5way ( they only have one) and a Nismo GT PRO for the read ( adjustable so i can set it at the lowest value for street use.

However, I'M thinking about selling the car a few month later ( things might chance.. i could deeply felt in love with the new setup and decide i want to keep it, but i believe i passed the point of coming back to liking it).

Given these facts, would you just use the stock diff setup or install only one diff or both ? As we all know, beeing new I have more chance to sell it at good price than if I install it and use it for a few month.. BUT !! if these new diffs could make my car drive better and pull better... then maybe this mod will make me like my car again lol..

Don't fit either, sell them both.

The rear diff is already a mechanical diff, and if you do want it tighter any diff shop can do it for a couple of hundred.

Changing the front diff is a disaster of a job unless the engine is out, and an LSD is only going to help at the front if you are having excessive wheelspin from 1 front wheel under power.

Spend the money from selling them on stuff you will notice like new shocks/springs or swaybars. Or beer and hookers.

Don't fit either, sell them both.

The rear diff is already a mechanical diff, and if you do want it tighter any diff shop can do it for a couple of hundred.

Changing the front diff is a disaster of a job unless the engine is out, and an LSD is only going to help at the front if you are having excessive wheelspin from 1 front wheel under power.

Spend the money from selling them on stuff you will notice like new shocks/springs or swaybars. Or beer and hookers.

Motor is already out and a RIPS pan is welded there so it's not a problem. Thanks for your input, I believe I will put both on sale, if they dont sell within the next 2 weeks, they will go on the car.

  • 2 weeks later...

You'll be amazed at what that funny little bit of metal that comes in a blue box can do! 3WD GTR's suck.

The 8374 will be a good thing also!

When will it be back in the road?!!

It was suppose to be back 2 month ago.. couldn't find a RB26 Head over here... decided on buying a built motor with ported head.. the seller decided to bail out 3 weeks after we agreed on a price.. so i'm now back to square one.. I found a head, will be picking her up in 1 week and mechanic and machinist will put me in priority to finish the car ASAP.

If ever i find the 83 too powerful or too laggy, my plan is to go with a 76/70 1.05. since i'm already external. I want it to grip and be quick. Don't care about the dynoqueen braggin right.

Edited by cobrAA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...