Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The brake pads on my r33 gtst series 2 have been replaced with bendix ultimate pads. They work fine how ever the make a horrible noise when coming to slow stops. I have put anti squeal on the rear of the pads but it done absolutely nothing! The rotors are fine. When I was taking the caliper off the driver side I used a little to much force on the spanner and it bent the brake line inlet into the caliper, surely that wouldn't be the problem would it? Help!!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456749-brand-new-brakes-squealing/
Share on other sites

I disagree, they are not crap. I used multiple sets over many years of hard street/light track use. They don't necessarily squeal (of course no manufacturer would knowingly release a product that couldn't be used). They are nasty for dust though....

Squealing happens because of high frequency vibration. You need to make sure all the surfaces are super clean (use brake cleaner generously). Ensure the surface between the hub and disc is free from rust so the disc sits flat. Ensure the caliper mounting to the hub is clean and straight. Make sure you have the anti rattle shims and that they are very clean on both sides too.

And like Ravi said, try bedding them in again. How did you do it the first time? Are the discs new, old but machined or just old?

I didn't research before I bought them, it does seem there are other people having the same problem with them. Apparently they do stop when they get up to temperature but I don't brake hard all the time so they never do. I have cleaned absolutely everything it's driving me insane. I've tried bedding them in multiple times, 60-0; 80-0; 100-0; 120-0. They are on the old unmachined rotors too, although they look and feel fine. It's only the front brakes to might I add.

Please tell me you a) looked up squeely brakes and b) have shims with those pads.

As have been said in every bloody thread regarding brake squeal.

Rub face of brakes

Machine rotors (get new ones if yours are ratty)

Bed them in properly

Do you have shims????!!!!

Oh you do?

Get different brake pads

Still no good?

Do you have the retaining spring on top of the brakes holding the pads down?

Did you check to see if your caliper bolts are tight?

Get them rebuilt

Posting on here was last resort. I've read everything it could possibly be. I never researched the pads before I bought them. I think it's just the pads from what I've read about them. Looks like I'll be buying new ones! But not before doing some research on them haha. Thanks guys!

Posting on here was last resort. I've read everything it could possibly be. I never researched the pads before I bought them. I think it's just the pads from what I've read about them. Looks like I'll be buying new ones! But not before doing some research on them haha. Thanks guys!

Scrub the surface again and re-bed them in.

what methods would you guys use for bedding in brakes?

go to 80km, hard brake without lock up down to 20km

repeat 6-8 times

let cool overnight?

Not quite. Drive it around getting faster and braking harder until they are nice and warm then do the multiple medium speed to slow speed stops routine above. Then cruise them around to cool off. Then do it again. Then instead of stopping the process dead.....keep driving them around and using them less and less aggressively to allow them to cool off while still in use. Then they are bedded.

On the topic of Ultimate in general - I concur with Duncan. There's nothing inherently wrong with them nor do they just squeal because they're a sqeally pad. I've used them heaps of time on a number of different cars and never had them squeal to an extent that I'd comment on it. Occasional squeal - certainly. No worse than any other pad though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...