Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's more than likely that they do. They'd be based around the idea of detecting the -OH group on the ethanol, and so should be able to see the same group on the methanol molecule. I would be VERY HESITANT to trust that the % it read out while seeing methanol would be accurate though. I'm sure that there are some calibration factors assumed/built into the sensor or its calculation that would be thrown out by the lighter metho molecule.

I just googled around a bit and there is muttering that the usual suspect sensor (the GM/Haltech one) tends to go to 200Hz frequency when methanol is present - meaning it is not useful. This is not the final word, as I'm not going to do all your research for you, but it would appear that whilst methanol will affect the sensor in a similar way to ethanol (as I suggested in my first post) the actual response of the sensor to the difference between eth and meth is to say that >100% ethanol is present. This is probably the safe and conservative way to do it, because methanol requires a lot more volume than even ethanol does, and system/sensor designers would probably want to be able to protect themselves against people using methanol deliberately/accidentally and running too lean.

Lol, easier to carry a flex fuel sensor

I agree, until such time it lets you down.

I was told these sensors are actually reading what percentage isn't ethanol, not sure how correct this is.

  • Like 1

How many have you seen fail, Scott?

None, and I assume they are fairly reliable seeing they are used in OEM applications, but they are also monitored by the stock ecu, and there are huge safety margins in place. I don't think I could ever fully rely on a sensor like this for turbo tuning unless I had two of them to compare. The less variables in the tune the better imo.

Same goes for wideband target mapping, without a pair of sensors running simultaneously you would have no idea if they are accurate.

I agree, until such time it lets you down.

I was told these sensors are actually reading what percentage isn't ethanol, not sure how correct this is.

But most ECUs have a failsafe, so if the ethanol sensor fails then assume ethanol content is 0% or whatever you set it as.

I'm running a flex sensor now too, drove to Wakefield yesterday with four jerry cans. After the track day, drove to 7-11 and filled up with 98 and drove home.

And unrelated, I chopped two R34 GT-Rs down the straight at Wakefield...

I'm running a flex sensor now too, drove to Wakefield yesterday with four jerry cans. After the track day, drove to 7-11 and filled up with 98 and drove home.

We did the same thing in Artz's 33, other than we had to drop the petrol tune on with the laptop near the border. A simple switch would have done the job.

Doesn't make much difference, you still need two tunes, but I can see the practicality of it.

Yeah but make a perfect 98 tune, then all you do is interpolate between the E85 3D map based on the ethanol content.

I drove home on about E40.. got mad economy too, did 187km on 20L

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...