Jump to content
SAU Community

T56 In Gtr

frostyboy
 Share

Recommended Posts

frostyboy Collaborator

frostyboy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys and girls

I have been looking into fitting a T56 6 speed manual gearbox or TR606 to my R33 GTR

I have carried out allot of research I have found out RWD conversions are possible and have been done but no one has done a AWD conversion that I have been able to find.

I think this could be a viable and cost effective option for people who are looking for a quiet street able gearbox which is capable of handling high HP.

Now the cost for a setup like this could range from $6000 to $8000 that is a estimate at this stage the first unit would more than likely be more expensive but with more interest these costs could fall

The T56 Magnum would probably be the gearbox of choice as it is the strongest syco box they do

Able to withstand a massive 700 lb-ft. of torque while providing unbelievably crisp shifts, no other manual transmission on the planet offers as much combined strength, versatility, and general ease-of-use as the T-56 Magnum.

Known in its original equipment form as the 'TR-6060', the Magnum is an aftermarket version of the same transmission found in many of today's most celebrated factory super cars – including the ZR1 Corvette and ACR Viper – giving you refinement where you want it and strength where it counts.

Other positives about these gearboxes are gear sets PPG have dog configurations and sequential setups for the more hardcore drivers. I personally wouldn’t see the point all you would do is fit a PPG setup to the factory 5 speed. The bell housing is also allot larger this may offer GTR owners more clutch options more surface area and the possibility to run a nicer street able clutch (sprung centre)

The biggest positive is retaining the 4WD and for me that the game changer.

This isn't set in stone as yet, I am looking for advice and wisdom there is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum and would love to hear your thoughts and comments

thanks for your time

Frosty

Edited by frostyboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457241-t56-in-gtr/
Share on other sites
Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted (edited)

I wouldn't even rate the T56 as a good gearbox, yeah it's strong but I think it shifts like a truck!

As the others have mentioned it would be a huge waste of time and money when there is already a very capable and smooth gearbox in the R34 Getrag box.....and as for clutches, you think there is a smoother easier clutch than the likes of the Nismo Coppermix Twin?

Edited by Sub Boy32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457241-t56-in-gtr/#findComment-7546381
Share on other sites
frostyboy Collaborator

frostyboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the input guy's

Would someone be able to give me some information on the getrag gearboxes?
What sort of power and torque are they rated to?
What type of synco setup do they have in them?
Are they single double or triple synco setups?
Are they brass, silicone or other material?

The issue with OS88, Albins or Hollinger is the high level of maintenance associated with them the OS88 is recommended to be pulled down at least once a year
Unsure about the others however I remember seeing similar times for the Holinger
I don’t know anyone who is daily driving a Holinger or OS88. I mean over 15,000km a year

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457241-t56-in-gtr/#findComment-7547600
Share on other sites
frostyboy Collaborator

frostyboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wouldn't even rate the T56 as a good gearbox, yeah it's strong but I think it shifts like a truck!

As the others have mentioned it would be a huge waste of time and money when there is already a very capable and smooth gearbox in the R34 Getrag box.....and as for clutches, you think there is a smoother easier clutch than the likes of the Nismo Coppermix Twin?

http://www.rsgear.com/products/transmissions/tranzilla.aspx

Triple cone synco's are the best you can get for a synco box

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457241-t56-in-gtr/#findComment-7547608
Share on other sites
  • 5 years later...
frostyboy Collaborator

frostyboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 28/06/2020 at 4:08 PM, GTSBoy said:

Yeah. It was dumb.

Is that the sort of answer you're looking for, or some confirmation bias?

Listen champ if you want to be a piece of shit find another forum don't bag out people trying something different.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457241-t56-in-gtr/#findComment-7934979
Share on other sites
frostyboy Collaborator

frostyboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Alright then *champ*. Tell us. How did your idea play out?

Mal Wood is developing a transfer case adapter to make it work.

All I'm asking GTSBoy is to not belittle other forum uses because you don't believe in there direction or don't like the thread. No one asked for you to read it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457241-t56-in-gtr/#findComment-7935002
Share on other sites
Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
Posted

Using this you will have an SFI spec bellhousing solving one of the issues that I have no idea how some of the "street drag" manual gtrs get around. Obviously those that go auto have no issue. 

 https://www.jegs.com/i/Quick-Time-Bellhousing/698/RM-7011/10002/-1

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457241-t56-in-gtr/#findComment-7935006
Share on other sites
Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
Posted

So i contacted malwood. They do indeed do this combo(I have pics). Looks like they sell complete box only and not an adapter by itself. 

I have asked for pricing. Could be a really interesting option compared to a used getrag if priced well.  

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457241-t56-in-gtr/#findComment-7935009
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW 335i

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW 335i

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...