Jump to content
SAU Community

Spool 3.4

Wyn

By Wyn,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Looking on Spool imports site I see they list a complete RB34 short engine, block, crank and pistons etc etc

Has anyone got one and what do you think of it and the build work done?

btw, for use with RB25/34 road/drag use

cheers

They used to have a video on their site of one a dyno making about 900hp but haven't seen anyone actually post one up here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7550239
Share on other sites
Wyn Contributor

Wyn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers, from what Spool have told me that bottom end is good for 8 - 9k rpm limit

But what head would peeps recommend using between the 2.5 GTST head and the Neo head for a 3.4 conversion?

To make full use of that rev capability I have the option of using my current RB25/30 GTST s1 head with Tomie pon cams but still on hydraulic lifters. That I've been advised (and used) 7.6k as a limit and believe it shouldn't be reved higher?

Or go buy and build it with a neo head and high lift cams to make full use of the bottom ends rev range

26 head is out as none of my ancillaries are going to fit. Any other options other then convert my GTST head to solid ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7550875
Share on other sites
Wyn Contributor

Wyn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

atm I am using a T3 bb GT35 but with a 1.06 exhaust housing. If that will now be undersized I don't know? But when it was mapped as a 3.0 it wanting to keep making power past its 7.6k rpm (safe) limit so maybe not?

As for the rev range yes it seemed odd but as they don't know 100% what I will be bolting onto it that's maybe why?

I haven't got a problem with that, more that I am happy I know a safe range ... or max when built

Yes the head needs to be right and be able to run to the bottom ends limit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7551093
Share on other sites
Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

A GT35 will have epic response on a 3.4L certainly wouldn't be testing the bottom end of the spool kit. Nor would i think it'd warrant a big $$$ head either.

I'd imagine a GT35 falling off around or probably before 7K.

Depending on what exactly your plans are for the car maybe start looking for something like a 6466?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7551129
Share on other sites
Wyn Contributor

Wyn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

As above I can only repeat what I was told by the dyno operator re it still making power all the way to its redline of 7.6kI

it would have reved on and made more if it wasn't for the hydraulic lifters

btw this is a sunday toy and for occasional drag strip use hence wanting the spec

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7551370
Share on other sites
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a bit of a greek salad.

Your going to the trouble of selecting a 3.4L for a drag build and then talking about limiting it with the head and turbo.

For drag, RPMs can help with the power up top, turbo needs to run up there and not be restrictive in housing.

Big lift cams and big turbo housing can get you some serious MPH but will sacrifice streetability.

The other thing is rod stroke ratio and piston speeds if your going to rev a 3.4L hard.

Get yourself a RB30, forget about stroking it and go from there.......your not in the zone for a stroker.

25/30, forged bottom end, bit of head work, right cams and turbo and your there without the stroker expense, if it blows its not so much of a money pit and cheap to rebuild/replace.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7551401
Share on other sites
Wyn Contributor

Wyn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No I don't want to limit it with turbo or head but just thoughts on what would be the better way to go?

Maybe there isn't? If I stay with a GTST it will cost to get the head converted to solid and new cams

Or if I went neo it will cost again for cams and a head.

Both might end up about the same?

Yes I use the car up the strip but its not going to be an out and out drag engine, as I still drive it as a day to day car (when its not raining lol)

Will see what turns up anyway as neo heads aren't that easy to come by by the looks of it either

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7551412
Share on other sites
jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
Posted

No I don't want to limit it with turbo or head but just thoughts on what would be the better way to go?

Maybe there isn't? If I stay with a GTST it will cost to get the head converted to solid and new cams

Or if I went neo it will cost again for cams and a head.

Both might end up about the same?

Yes I use the car up the strip but its not going to be an out and out drag engine, as I still drive it as a day to day car (when its not raining lol)

Will see what turns up anyway as neo heads aren't that easy to come by by the looks of it either

Neo head with a shim under conversion is on par with a 26 generally.

Gt35 does not seem big enough to warrant a 3.4

6466 is a great combo for a 3l.

You should make 500kw + (e85) never have to worry about how high your limiter is.

Save the extra from the stroker crank, put it into the head.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7553045
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

No I don't want to limit it with turbo or head but just thoughts on what would be the better way to go?

Maybe there isn't? If I stay with a GTST it will cost to get the head converted to solid and new cams

Or if I went neo it will cost again for cams and a head.

Both might end up about the same?

Yes I use the car up the strip but its not going to be an out and out drag engine, as I still drive it as a day to day car (when its not raining lol)

Will see what turns up anyway as neo heads aren't that easy to come by by the looks of it either

Get Rips to ship you a 3.2 engine - he may be able to find you a Neo head as well.

http://www.ripsracing.com/

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7553074
Share on other sites
Huzqld Enthusiast

Huzqld

Posted
Posted

Neo head with a shim under conversion is on par with a 26 generally.

Gt35 does not seem big enough to warrant a 3.4

6466 is a great combo for a 3l.

You should make 500kw + (e85) never have to worry about how high your limiter is.

Save the extra from the stroker crank, put it into the head.

What's involved in doing the shim-under conversion on the Neo head?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7553145
Share on other sites
Wyn Contributor

Wyn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers, have decided to go for the neo head so am on the lookout for one now

As for the 3.4 motor its a done deal. Deposits made so the sooner its built and over here the sooner I can get on with it

In the mean time I have my 25/30, turbo and injectors etc etc which I can use to help finance this new build

Will see how it all pans out I guess so no doubt I'll have a few more questions lol

btw, Talking of injectors am I still likely to get away with my 740 nismo s/feed injectors, greddy copy manifold on a Neo?

Or is that impossible to say till its fully speced

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457460-spool-34/#findComment-7553244
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...