Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What a bummer !!! Machinist assembled my whole bottom without realising the tomei oil pump won't fit with a crank collar... So what are my best option now ? Nismo oil pump, Nitto, N1 + reimax gear ?

i really wanted to run the tomei pump, like i never heard no where that i couldn't use a crank collar.. even Jun collar state it will work with tomei pump. I don't know what to think.

They tried with a std crank and the tomei pump fitted.

Pull it apart and install the Tomei.

If its a track car or you drive it hard with the N1 etc you will need to do it anyway. Any half decent RB engine builder would have known.

Nitto could be a go though - I have heard good things.

Do it once do it right.

Edited by Stixbnr32

Funny enough exactly the same happened to my current build, Nitto collar and Tomie pump.

We had a nitto collar fitted, my machinist has fitted many collars in the past for others and we found out just like you after the bottom end was assembled that the collar was too big once we went to slide the pump on.

Dont muck around, its NOT a big job to get the bottom end dissembled and crank back out and get it machined back to size, it wont throw out your balancing.

I blamed it on the machinist not taking enough off the crank so the collar sat too high once it cooled down, however i could be wrong as i didn't mic up the outside of the Nitto collar before fitment to prove to myself for sure that it was not already too big.

Stay with the Tomie pump, its the only one made with external pressure adjustment, all the others cannot provide you with that, for that i rank it as the best internal pump you can run.

Also make sure you provide enough clearance for the oil pump collar to oil pump, the crank nose will flex and walk when pushing HP so make sure there is room to move, also if you have had the block mains tunnel honed the crank will sit a whisker deeper into the block.

Remember that the oil pump is positioned and centered on pins on the block.......

Edited by GTRPSI

Once a collar is installed it can be removed ?

how much extra hours would you estimate to de-assemble and re-balance everything ?

I should've checked my stuff, but at the same time, theres a reason why i paid a mechanic and a machinist to do it for me, its because i don't know how to do it... so i can always make him pay for the extra hours as i can't see myself being blame for this mistake.

Edited by cobrAA

You dont remove the collar to fix it, leave it on the crank as is, get them to linish it down to the correct size, its the same procedure as linishing a crank.

Make sure they also mic up the flat sections and take care of them too while its out.

Dont forget to tape up all the oil feed holes before doing anything to stop dirt getting in, will save you having to remove the grub screws and going back through the oil channels with a rifle cleaner.

Make sure you clean the crank thoroughly before putting it back in.

Once a collar is installed it can be removed ?

how much extra hours would you estimate to de-assemble and re-balance everything ?

I should've checked my stuff, but at the same time, theres a reason why i paid a mechanic and a machinist to do it for me, its because i don't know how to do it... so i can always make him pay for the extra hours as i can't see myself being blame for this mistake.

IFF the diameter of the collar is the only issue then there is no need to remove it - it can just be turned down to size and if everything is put back together in the same place then there should be little if any need for balancing. As a matter of interest do you have the diameter of the June collar? I haven't come across this problem as yet but would anyway expect the machinist to try the pump over the collar before fitting.

I had the same problem, JUN collar, Tomei pump and didn't fit. Same deal, my machinist had the oil pump as well as the crank/collar but he didn't pick it up.

I bought 2 collars, one local and the JUN. The local collar had heaps of clearance to the oil pump drive (prior to fitting to crank) whereas the JUN had perfect clearance. I can only presume the same as was mentioned above, the collar was heated to fit, was pressed on but then it didn't shrink back enough to give the right clearance.

Wish the machinist picked it up before i got to the point of fitting the oil pump...

I had the same problem, JUN collar, Tomei pump and didn't fit. Same deal, my machinist had the oil pump as well as the crank/collar but he didn't pick it up.

I bought 2 collars, one local and the JUN. The local collar had heaps of clearance to the oil pump drive (prior to fitting to crank) whereas the JUN had perfect clearance. I can only presume the same as was mentioned above, the collar was heated to fit, was pressed on but then it didn't shrink back enough to give the right clearance.

Wish the machinist picked it up before i got to the point of fitting the oil pump...

If this is what's happening then its the machinist's fault. He hasn't removed enough material from the crank to allow the collar to return to its proper dimensions when cool. If he had double checked when the collar was on and found it didn't fit it would have been simple at this point to machine it down to suit.

If this is what's happening then its the machinist's fault. He hasn't removed enough material from the crank to allow the collar to return to its proper dimensions when cool. If he had double checked when the collar was on and found it didn't fit it would have been simple at this point to machine it down to suit.

Yes, no (I agree), yes...... :verymad:

kinda sad to hear all these story... knowing that in fact it could've of worked but its not...

Anyways... i would've liked the idea of running a tomei pump because they seems to act a bit as a damper .. for the same reason i bought the coppermix clutch and their dampening effect, but oh well gotta move on. reimax gear ordered. I don't want to start a fight with the machinist either. what is done is done..

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/clutch/sctwin.html

This lowers the overall pressure on individual splines. It reduces wear to the input shaft and prevents disengagement problems. Having a center hub also makes installation easier than for single clutches by eliminating the risk of damaging the splines or misaligning the 2 discs during clutch assembly

just a better design overall than the os giken with a Damper vs their non damper clutch.

As for the pump, i didn't use the right word, but the 3 piece rotor design should help with vibration and gear breaking, i was told.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
    • Hi all,I already introduced myself in the Victoria section, but only saw this section now lol XD New to forums and new to skylines. Hoping to buy my new skyline within October
×
×
  • Create New...