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How To Install Front Nismo Diff ?

cobrAA
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cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
Posted

My mechanic is having trouble figuring out where to trim the diff. The problem is the diff will fit int he case but it wont spin, it lock when the diff is in position so it must not make the good contact but he can't figure where it was to be removed because it's not knocking anywhere.

I found these information on the net but it doesn't seems to help me much.. can someone shed some light please ? and/or translate the instruction from nismo in japanese ?

I'm willing to pay for the information, we really need to get that pan installed so we can proceed with the rebuild.

Thanks !

http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=6675

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458239-how-to-install-front-nismo-diff/
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Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

As in the gears are meshing way too tight and won't turn?

All diff either use shims or threaded adjusters to set pinion depth and pattern.

It shouldnt be that confusing.

Maybe this will help a bit. It shows the shim under the side bearing races etc.

http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=6675

Haha. I linked to your link. Too early for me.....

So it binds up when fully assembled? Is he experienced building diffs ?

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what confuse him is that it appears the diff is not ''grinding/touching'' any of my housing ( like if my housing already had the material grinding before..) so he was like '' cool, bolt-on affair! '' but then when we started turning it, it would turn 3/4 and then jam.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted (edited)

What i do is an old school method but may work mate. I paint all the gears turn them and then remove all the gears to inspect the wear or contact pattern. I do that first with the original unit then compare it to what im looking for with the new one. It should be the shim method. This is the rear diff right. ??

Edited by MJTru
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

What i do is an old school method but may work mate. I paint all the gears turn them and then remove all the gears to inspect the wear or contact pattern. I do that first with the original unit then compare it to what im looking for with the new one. It should be the shim method. This is the rear diff right. ??

Title of the thread says its front diff.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

HarrisRacing's build thread has pictures on where to grind material off the sump http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447384-r32-gtr-build-in-usa/?p=7559306

Which is shown in the original post link.

Seriously.

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes there are 5 places to grind.

4 of them allow the diff to be installed. (Mine simply would NOT go without these ground clear).

The 5th place needs to be relieved so the LSD can rotate. It is the boss for the bolt threads next to the oil pan side. I didn't grind this one enough in the pictures below and the next group of pictures didn't come out clear after I ground it later...but had the same exact issue your mechanic had. You'll see some marking and grinding in the pictures below...the bolt boss wasn't ground enough and the wider diameter of the new LSD wouldn't clear in 4 places of rotation. When you fit it, you can easily see clearance issue (as your mechanic did).

What...you don't have a japanese mechanic? The instructions were very clear (if you know Japanese!) :)

Make sure he gets his shims and preload right! The preload on this front diff is so low it's laughable (AND HARD TO GET RIGHT).

post-136202-0-63656800-1437391408_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-12309300-1437391449_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-30789000-1437391476_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-51418000-1437391615_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing

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