Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mechanic is having trouble figuring out where to trim the diff. The problem is the diff will fit int he case but it wont spin, it lock when the diff is in position so it must not make the good contact but he can't figure where it was to be removed because it's not knocking anywhere.

I found these information on the net but it doesn't seems to help me much.. can someone shed some light please ? and/or translate the instruction from nismo in japanese ?

I'm willing to pay for the information, we really need to get that pan installed so we can proceed with the rebuild.

Thanks !

http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=6675

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458239-how-to-install-front-nismo-diff/
Share on other sites

As in the gears are meshing way too tight and won't turn?

All diff either use shims or threaded adjusters to set pinion depth and pattern.

It shouldnt be that confusing.

Maybe this will help a bit. It shows the shim under the side bearing races etc.

http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=6675

Haha. I linked to your link. Too early for me.....

So it binds up when fully assembled? Is he experienced building diffs ?

what confuse him is that it appears the diff is not ''grinding/touching'' any of my housing ( like if my housing already had the material grinding before..) so he was like '' cool, bolt-on affair! '' but then when we started turning it, it would turn 3/4 and then jam.

What i do is an old school method but may work mate. I paint all the gears turn them and then remove all the gears to inspect the wear or contact pattern. I do that first with the original unit then compare it to what im looking for with the new one. It should be the shim method. This is the rear diff right. ??

Edited by MJTru

What i do is an old school method but may work mate. I paint all the gears turn them and then remove all the gears to inspect the wear or contact pattern. I do that first with the original unit then compare it to what im looking for with the new one. It should be the shim method. This is the rear diff right. ??

Title of the thread says its front diff.

HarrisRacing's build thread has pictures on where to grind material off the sump http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447384-r32-gtr-build-in-usa/?p=7559306

Which is shown in the original post link.

Seriously.

Yes there are 5 places to grind.

4 of them allow the diff to be installed. (Mine simply would NOT go without these ground clear).

The 5th place needs to be relieved so the LSD can rotate. It is the boss for the bolt threads next to the oil pan side. I didn't grind this one enough in the pictures below and the next group of pictures didn't come out clear after I ground it later...but had the same exact issue your mechanic had. You'll see some marking and grinding in the pictures below...the bolt boss wasn't ground enough and the wider diameter of the new LSD wouldn't clear in 4 places of rotation. When you fit it, you can easily see clearance issue (as your mechanic did).

What...you don't have a japanese mechanic? The instructions were very clear (if you know Japanese!) :)

Make sure he gets his shims and preload right! The preload on this front diff is so low it's laughable (AND HARD TO GET RIGHT).

post-136202-0-63656800-1437391408_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-12309300-1437391449_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-30789000-1437391476_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-51418000-1437391615_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take a couple of the big ones back to "work", leave them in the big bin.   Will make a good boom when the garbage truck emptys it out... I've heard from another source about the boom when they had put I believe it was a 4cylinder engine in the big bins at Richmond base...
    • That idea has crossed my mind, I do a 5km walk everyday, this does take me past some bushland......I think you may be onto something 😉  That, plus 1 rock on every bin night might do the trick, it may take a year, but it could save me a couple of grand The only issue is the big 'Boonies", I have a few that weigh around 30-40kg, maybe they should be the first to go into the raised garden bed,  and then let the next owner deal with them....my daughter gets the joint when I kick the bucket, mums the word mate......LOL Noice......
    • Wow. Did you call the car a Nissan Skyline?
    • You're retired Mark, on bin night, go for a walk, kind of like you're doing the beep test. Put one rock in the first neighbours, come back, get another rock, go to the second neighbours, repeat over many weeks. All rocks eventually gone...
    • No chop chop of anything mate, it is what it is, plus, I don't want any air that isn't either going through the cooling stack or intake getting into the engine compartment increasing under bonnet pressure  Yeah, the Mazda Speed aftermarket intake above is less than ideal for multiple reasons, the requirement to remove the bumper every time you need to service the filter, and also smaller in diameter than the NC1 OEM one Weirdly, Mazda Speed is part of the Mazda motorsport division, "form over function" and $$$$$ for Mazda from unsuspecting punters I suspect  After some googling about them it seems they added no power, but do increase some induction noise Meh In other news, the electricians have been busy today at the house, and are back tomorrow finishing up all the security stuff and exterior lighting, they also added some lighting on the garage ceiling, which will come in handy when working in the garage when it's not freezing out there My Birdies raised garden bed also arrived today as well, which I'll put together and place tomorrow, it's a big tall Bessie, 74cm high, 92cm wide and 214cm long, this will come in handy as I am starting to get "stockpiles" of good soils from doing landscaping, some of the clean rock, namely the river stone, will go into the bottom of the bed for drainage, as well as the old Apricot tree that was out the back,  and when it's full, I'll grab another one, I will be growing enough veggies to keep me both busy as well as supplementing the shopping list I'm also awaiting another quote for a new Colourbond front fence, as the "1980 style cemented in rock edging" that was there and "fashionable at the time" looked arse, and my god, the amount of cement used to fix the rock was insane, it took 1.5 days for me to break out 12 meters of the stuff by hand, trim the bushes back to the fence line and dump it out the back of the joint to deal with at a later date,I will soon need a skip bin to tip it all Unfortunately they did alot of the cemented in rock around the joint, which I hate, so a few pallets of retaining wall blocks for around the front and back where the cemented in rock is will be required to bring it up to a standard, and look, that I will be happy with 12 meters worth of rock and cement Finished smashing the fence line and ready for a fence to be installed, yes, the lawns need some TLC and thickness, the previous owner trimmed the grass to the roots 😢, the TLC I can provide, and nature over time will do the rest And there's probably about another 40 meters worth of this landscaping abomination left to do around the front and back gardens, I'm guessing maybe 3 or 4 tons worth, tip fees for this will be a killer Meh, all in all I'm having fun and keeping busy, plus, it's good PT
×
×
  • Create New...