Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Install Front Nismo Diff ?

cobrAA
 Share

Recommended Posts

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
Posted

My mechanic is having trouble figuring out where to trim the diff. The problem is the diff will fit int he case but it wont spin, it lock when the diff is in position so it must not make the good contact but he can't figure where it was to be removed because it's not knocking anywhere.

I found these information on the net but it doesn't seems to help me much.. can someone shed some light please ? and/or translate the instruction from nismo in japanese ?

I'm willing to pay for the information, we really need to get that pan installed so we can proceed with the rebuild.

Thanks !

http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=6675

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458239-how-to-install-front-nismo-diff/
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

As in the gears are meshing way too tight and won't turn?

All diff either use shims or threaded adjusters to set pinion depth and pattern.

It shouldnt be that confusing.

Maybe this will help a bit. It shows the shim under the side bearing races etc.

http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=6675

Haha. I linked to your link. Too early for me.....

So it binds up when fully assembled? Is he experienced building diffs ?

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what confuse him is that it appears the diff is not ''grinding/touching'' any of my housing ( like if my housing already had the material grinding before..) so he was like '' cool, bolt-on affair! '' but then when we started turning it, it would turn 3/4 and then jam.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted (edited)

What i do is an old school method but may work mate. I paint all the gears turn them and then remove all the gears to inspect the wear or contact pattern. I do that first with the original unit then compare it to what im looking for with the new one. It should be the shim method. This is the rear diff right. ??

Edited by MJTru
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

What i do is an old school method but may work mate. I paint all the gears turn them and then remove all the gears to inspect the wear or contact pattern. I do that first with the original unit then compare it to what im looking for with the new one. It should be the shim method. This is the rear diff right. ??

Title of the thread says its front diff.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

HarrisRacing's build thread has pictures on where to grind material off the sump http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447384-r32-gtr-build-in-usa/?p=7559306

Which is shown in the original post link.

Seriously.

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes there are 5 places to grind.

4 of them allow the diff to be installed. (Mine simply would NOT go without these ground clear).

The 5th place needs to be relieved so the LSD can rotate. It is the boss for the bolt threads next to the oil pan side. I didn't grind this one enough in the pictures below and the next group of pictures didn't come out clear after I ground it later...but had the same exact issue your mechanic had. You'll see some marking and grinding in the pictures below...the bolt boss wasn't ground enough and the wider diameter of the new LSD wouldn't clear in 4 places of rotation. When you fit it, you can easily see clearance issue (as your mechanic did).

What...you don't have a japanese mechanic? The instructions were very clear (if you know Japanese!) :)

Make sure he gets his shims and preload right! The preload on this front diff is so low it's laughable (AND HARD TO GET RIGHT).

post-136202-0-63656800-1437391408_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-12309300-1437391449_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-30789000-1437391476_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-51418000-1437391615_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Blue slip

      By PranK · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Blue slip

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Stringycheese
      Blue slip

      By Stringycheese · Posted

      Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
×
×
  • Create New...