Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put some AD08s on it and come back and say that..

Lol I know I know, wasn't srs

srs doe cant get ad08s in 19s

Had nittos and they were mad, will get some good ones soon got some big brembos in the house ready to go on too

Once I intercool it might actually take it to the (circuit) track for some fun

Edited by UNR33L

yeah changed massively over past 3 years.

I struggle to get performance tyres in 17" now 255 17 is a raity, when I was seriously tracking they were the most common..

it all 18+ now with all performance cars running 18-20's

going to change wheels to 18's soon so rubber cheaper.

Made over 850nm torque on that dyno throughout the whole rev range basically.. not sure exactly what that means on a dyno but yeh.

it means you don't know the difference between torque and tractive effort

Inb4 worse off the line traction with AD08Rs. Mine always needed a bit of heat in them to get going.

Borcis experience - (Leroys experience + (Greg's experience * g)) = X

Calculate for X

g = Greg's coefficient [(Damage done * price in AUD)/time spent off the road ^2.8]

Inb4 worse off the line traction with AD08Rs. Mine always needed a bit of heat in them to get going.

Borcis experience - (Leroys experience + (Greg's experience * g)) = X

Calculate for X

g = Greg's coefficient [(Damage done * price in AUD)/time spent off the road ^2.8]

Really bruh? I could launch them at 6k no problem even early in the morning

I spun out all over the place on NT05's... at like 30kmh off throttle. Was great.

I won't bother with trying to do another run at Heathcote with AD08's (never mind the fact the car never managed a pass last time lol) due to their horrific grip on the strip.

I found them to grip much better on a normal road though.

Also, there was a FG Typhoon the first time I went to Heathcote, making 420rwkw, had some suitable tyres, being MT ET Streets and was running mid 10's every run, so I'd wager "needs 500rwkw to feel quick" probs not quite so much, depending on what your definition of 'quick' is

The problem with Leigh's car is its linear power delivery and you can blame the supercharger for it. One of Barry's customers has a blown GTS and it's the same deal, quick car but doesn't feel fast once you've sat through a couple of 0-100s. Speedo goes up very quick but the seat of the pants doesn't replicate. They really do need a lot of power to feel fast everywhere. Leigh's car only gets scary when you're above 150 and it's still climbing very quickly, on cheap shit tyres...

To be fair, all scary cars are only scary when scary.

I was in a 400KW -5's R33 GTR recently and it felt very non scary, mainly due to the fact it really didn't give a shit about losing grip at any point. Stability is both good and bad in that aspect, I'd wager bigger, heavier cars like the GTS, or Leigh's car would do much the same. I've been told my boaty sedan feels a little that way too, but not in the same ballpark of a GTR or larger cars.

Probably saying that is why a MX5 is fun at about 4kmh

Birds my way to get that turbo rush of power out of nowhere is to get dat dere foot turbo lag makes you realize that it pulls, either that or sit 4000rpm then stomp the throttle for that instant throwback.

That awkward moment when a walkinshaw gts goes you off the line when you've just started driving and tyres are rock icey cold, skated all the way up Blackburn road near Monash playing catch-up. Then on roll he bitched out when I was aware

Edited by UNR33L

RE002's had much better cold grip than AD08R for me. Maybe sidewalls too stiff.

When on the limit pulsar is scary. Mainly for grip/stability reasons. But handles well in corners.

Soon to be booked in for shit loads of fab work. Then on the home straight... Sort of.

Working in fuel and intake at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...