Jump to content
SAU Community

Vic Wasteland Thread - 15.0

R31Nismoid

By R31Nismoid,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 18.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Birds

    3388

  • joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

    2307

  • Leroy Peterson

    2241

  • UNR33L

    1870

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

blah_blah
blah_blah

This is where the cost of a Tax accountant that knows what they are doing outweighs the costs   FYI $300/h

Mohsen
Mohsen

this has been covered many times before on this forum, please use the search function.

Mohsen
Mohsen

tokyo is so f**king cool.

Posted Images

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Random car broken wtf problem.

Turbo howls when in vacuum (between -10mmhg and 0) and then stops at about 6psi and then sounds normal.

No, it is not the exhaust drowning it out.

How can this be a thing.

All I have done is tighten the v-band that is connected to the external gate (which is off the housing), but the problem happens at a point where the gate isn't even in play.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

I don't really know what it is, pretty confident there's no boost leaks (sadly I have become very very very intimate with my charge pipes and clamps and silicon joiners and they are all replaced).

Just sounds like a big WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO as its spooling but no sound when actually making boost. The car sounds naturally aspirated from 7psi to 25psi which is really quite weird feeling. Just very much when the turbo is spinning up, but I wouldn't say its surge because you can hear the turbo spinning *down* after you come off throttle and you are around -15/20mmhg, which is just flat out strange.

In b4 turbine blown out of exhaust or compressor wheel in intake valves, but of course both the wheels look perfect and have no play.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

so you've inspected the exhaust side of the turbo after the noise started?

Sounded like a manifold leak but not ticking, just a weird... sound. Could actually be an exhaust leak from the actual exhaust because I may have hit the flex join on a few things but you know, check everything.

Fixed hose clamp going to gate from exhaust housing on turbo. You could move the band around previously so clearly it could be better sealed. Removed and new bolt after cutting the original bolt off with a hacksaw because long story.

Howly sound and better feeling engine/spool so assumed fixed.

Just makes a loud sound now. Didn't make any kind of sound before fixing the vband. Maybe always broken. Maybe not.

Dropped dump pipe and intake, had a look, spun wheels around, clearly not making contact and all the fins appear to be intact, etc.

Its more the intermittent nature of it that makes no sense, I've had leaks and manifold to turbo gaskets go etc, and it SOUNDS like that but all of those don't mysteriously stop making sound at 7psi.

I will borrow a gopro and make a video cause everything on the net seems to imply it shouldn't be possible, but hey, not like the limits of reality has ever contained this car's ongoing problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...