Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

16 minutes ago, emts said:

I've oft wonderes about this myself.

 

but considering we are protecting gliches in other peoples software it's prob not happening.

Doubt we could bribe Microsoft to put in a vulnerability in their OS just to sell a little more Anti virus.

 

there enough bad code out there already without us having to get more.

Nothing like a bad code you already have a fix for though

Bit like Kaspersky and their ransomware decryption tools...I don't know much about 256 encryption but I thought the whole point was that it would take a supercomputer millions of years to decrypt

/tinfoil

On the topic of IT, watching YouTube today it's incredible the chipsets and systems people are replicating within minecraft...put AI into that and hello Skynet

It's substancially longer than that.

however as the hackers use the same key for all ransomware of that version.

think of it as a car key, there a near unlimited amount of key shapes that you could use, however if Nissan were to use the exact same barrel on every car...makes it easy you get any nissan key and your sorted

 

Kaspersky pay for a single fix then use that key to decrypt all the other people.

 

EDIT:

as for AES 256 bit encryption, for AES128

even with a supercomputer, it would take 1 billion billion years to crack the 128-bit AES key using brute force attack. This is more than the age of the universe (13.75 billion years).

http://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1279619

 

So AES256 is pretty secure. and if you worried about that move on to ECC ciphers.

50 minutes ago, Birds said:

On the topic of IT, watching YouTube today it's incredible the chipsets and systems people are replicating within minecraft...put AI into that and hello Skynet

yeah its amazing what the human race can achieve with determination and hundreds of man hours

 

5 hours ago, emts said:

well at least it comes with the 5.2L V12....... oh wait.

 

yeah, because everyone wants to pay $75,000 for an ancient VW chassis with a subaru motor and 4 forward gears.

So the big question... would you be ok driving it around? I'd feel like I was doing it wrong somehow, like the people who see it deserve better.
I'm not a replica fan. I feel like it would be a real dampener if you found out it wasn't a real lambo.

I'm mixed when it comes to replicas.

If your building a cobra/GT40 kit car and sticking with a big ass V8 and some slightly modern suspension and brakes I'm a fan, 

A lambo with a VW frame and a 2l subie motor hell no. your Ferrari 355 thts actually a MR2 (I'm looking at you here top gear) go and EAD.

 

the big thing is however if you claim your replica is a real one..best expect to be stabbed.

 

 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Leroy Peterson said:

yeah its amazing what the human race can achieve with determination and hundreds of man hours

 

Factorio hey...someone made a game out of Patrick's job?

Sandstorm is impressive until you see in game video call

I'm 50/50 on these things. They are very impressive in the skill and manpower required to literally build a virtual computer. But what it boils down to is that the above is effectively a crappy version of Skype within an operating system called minecraft. Not to detract from them, but all they are doing is a virtual version of what people did decades and decades ago in the physical world...who were / still are the real geniuses and many manpowers. I guess the amazement comes from repurposing software and hardware for alternative uses, not unlike that guy who loaded Doom up on his Apple MacBook bar.

  • Like 1
52 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

So the big question... would you be ok driving it around? I'd feel like I was doing it wrong somehow, like the people who see it deserve better.
I'm not a replica fan. I feel like it would be a real dampener if you found out it wasn't a real lambo.

Waaaaaait wait Mr. anti-status symbol, forget what others think of your replica haha

  • Like 1

Respect for replicas that are well done or allow average joe to enjoy the look and feel of one

Mind boggling is when the replica cost more to build than the real thing; when DIY becomes near artwork or an exercise to see if it can be done. Always admired this 996 replica, which started life as a Calibra of all things

calibra-porsche-replika-replica-kitcar-b

front view that works, but as soon as you get a side view it's all wrong, soo long in the rear quarter that messes everything up.

 

in my books, (which I know count for nothing) a replica cannot be built on an existing car. they just never work.

 

thus the Cobra/GT40/Caterham's all work as they a purpose built chassis.

http://jalopnik.com/5152937/top-scandal-top-gear-live-using-mr2-based-fake-ferrari-360-spiders

 

Also that 996... wow. That's a lot of effort.
I actually like the stories where a bloke (it's alway a bloke) builds his dream car replica from scratch. Especially the one where he had to demolish his basement wall to get it out. :)

So according to the NBN website it's coming to my address Jan-March this year.. wonder how I go about upgrading my current cable plan that i'm locked in for another 20 months, I guess I can change plan but would have to stick with Telstra. 

Edited by UNR33L

I'm sure it'd be fine as long as you sign another 24 month contract.

I got Telstra 3.0 cable, don't see a point in moving to nbn

Potentially found next car to buy (legit). Sell Gloria once I've achieved everything and enjoyed it, then find an F30 Leopard in Japan and go old school VIP/Yuppie build.

So the big question... would you be ok driving it around? I'd feel like I was doing it wrong somehow, like the people who see it deserve better.
I'm not a replica fan. I feel like it would be a real dampener if you found out it wasn't a real lambo.


Err... Do you even remember yesterday?
Quote

Err... Do you even remember yesterday?

Apologies, sleep deprivation (thank you new child) is killing me. 

I read back through what i had written... I should not be allowed on the internet. 

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...