Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

34 minutes ago, Mohsen said:

the question is, will it flutter like central park does if you walk through it with some bread?
how much. will pay top dollar for something dodgy as f**k.

$80 and a reach around to make you flutter like a little girl tonight.

yeah, I'm not prepared to novate over 3 years due to the massive baloon and I'm not prepared to have a decent euro (not including the train tation hack golf I currently have before anyone points this out) non under warranty

yeah agree no warranty wouldnt touch a euro. Biggest mistake people make is buying a second hand euro which has depreciated a heap but they forget the repairs / maintenance / parts are priced according to original price.. 

Edited by alr33x
4 minutes ago, alr33x said:

yeah agree no warranty wouldnt touch a euro. Biggest mistake people make is buying a second hand euro which has depreciated a heap but they forget the repairs / maintenance / parts are priced according to original price.. 

* and designed to fail 

I've always been pro Aussie, but after driving a brand new Territory with interior ergonomics and design that hasn't changed since the 00s and buttons that feel like they were supplied by Fisher Price, I'd be steering clear of a Ford at least.

Actually, even new Subaru Foresters feel junky as f**k. Maybe new cars on the whole are sucking a dick.

3 hours ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

I'm not prepared to have a decent euro (not including the train tation hack golf I currently have before anyone points this out) non under warranty

 

2 hours ago, alr33x said:

yeah agree no warranty wouldnt touch a euro. Biggest mistake people make is buying a second hand euro which has depreciated a heap but they forget the repairs / maintenance / parts are priced according to original price.. 

I like to live dangerously

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Birds said:

I've always been pro Aussie, but after driving a brand new Territory with interior ergonomics and design that hasn't changed since the 00s and buttons that feel like they were supplied by Fisher Price, I'd be steering clear of a Ford at least.

Actually, even new Subaru Foresters feel junky as f**k. Maybe new cars on the whole are sucking a dick.

Yeah they're still based on the 08 FG, same as my 2011 although mines got some FPV adjustments & improvements.

I still rate mine better than the 2015 STI I drove in almost all areas beside the seat / satnav. Camera + climate control of the Ford shat on the STI

Oh the STI had a nicer steering wheel too.. felt like a Prius power wise though, WRX > STI engine  

Edited by UNR33L
you need a boost gauge.
cut your actuator vacc line in half. put boost tee on eitherside of cut vacc line. Set to like 1-2 turns off lowest setting. drive. note down boost. adjust accordingly.


Who gives legitimately useful advice in a wasteland thread.

Wtf man.
  • Like 2
Yeah they're still based on the 08 FG, same as my 2011 although mines got some FPV adjustments & improvements.
I still rate mine better than the 2015 STI I drove in almost all areas beside the seat / satnav. Camera + climate control of the Ford shat on the STI


My ford's interior all feels pretty nice.

It's a euro built one though. Most of the Aussie ones are built in Thailand where a fewer number of f**ks are given to quality as long as it's cheap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...