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use the AC Delco air temp sensor

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-AC-DELCO-HOLDEN-VL-VN-VG-VP-VR-VS-AIR-TEMP-SENSOR-COMMODORE-TEMPERATURE-/251111882110?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3a776f3d7e

which you will need to fit into intake piping somewhere. The calibration table should still be available on the Wolf site, if not PM me and I can email it to you.

I used a plugin Wold 3d on my other car but it already runs an airtemp sensor so it was just a matter of fitting the new plug to those wires. Your Wolf will almost certainly have pins for the airtemp sensor even if rb20's don't use one, so you would just need to find them on the ecu's pinout diagram and then fit extra pins into the back of your stock ecu harness to include it in the wiring.

(***disclaimer I have never seen your car or its' wiring and take no legal liability for the accuracy of my post content)

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In theory if you are not running an AFM you can use those wires for something else (usually the MAP sensor or the boost solenoid) depending on whether the tuner is able to re-allocate those pins in the ecu... but since you need to add three things: a map sensor, boost solenoid and air temp sensor you may as well run three new wires.

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Wolf runs an internal 21psi map sensor. As I understand it the ecu itself is the standard wolf universal ecu, they just reconfigure the pins to the vehicle specific wiring loom and load it with a base map, making it 'plugin'. hence me saying it should still have pins for air temp sensor as standard.

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I stated in your other thread that Wolf uses pins 1 / 3 for the air temp sensor. That is for the stand alone unit with custom loom. In the factory ECU - and hence the Wolf PnP - pins 1 / 3 are used to fire spark on #1 / #3. I don't know which (spare) pins Wolf is using for the air temp sensor in the PnP unit - you will have to ask them.

The engine will still run without an air temp sensor - actually you can turn it on / off on the handset. From memory, mine has next to no adjustment for air temperature, and still seems to run fine (I'm running v4+ on a RB25DET).

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I have this on my Haltech, and thought I had ended the world when I didn't have a valid ATS reading. Common wisdom is "BUT THATS HOW A MAP SENSOR ECU DETERMINES PRESSURE!!!"

Turns out... it's doesn't seem to be such a big deal at all, when testing the AFR is identical (or within 0.1) at a charge temp of 10C or 80C, corrections appear to be minor at best (if needed at all?). I got it configured then realised all the cells that I actually hit in regards to air temp have a 0.0% correction in them and don't seem to need anything..

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If you want your mixtures correct then you really should have the AT sensor working. But the most important thing is the timing correction.

Having said that, most AFM equipped Nissans don't have any AT sensor so they really don't have any timing compensation for cold/hot conditions. It's probably why stock ECUd Skylines seem top drive better when the weather is hot. The engine gets closer to the knock threshold and makes more power, regardless of the reduced density.

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