Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well it doesn't matter so much as why the hell is it only putting out 400hp on 20lb.

But:

80mm afm's.
-5 turbros.

PWR intercooler.

256 degree inlet cam, 252 exhaust

Cleaned up head.

forged internals with new crank, carillo rods.

stock exhaust manifolds, ported.

Tomei dumps and whatever you call the pipes after that.

3.5" exhaust.

Generally stuff and done properly.

Edited by djr81

I take it that its been tuned and etc

Japanese branded against? If so did you remove the restrictor?

Good quality cat or even better gone?

The other thing that seems to be coming up a lot is crank angle sensors on the blink

Prior to the rebuild at one point it ran 450rwhp on 15lb with the same exhaust but different cams (Poncam B's which suck)

Was expecting something like 480rwhp. AFR's are 11 and a bit. Doesn't drive like its lacking ignition advance.

Cas was replaced 12 months ago.

Injector duty is well below 100%

Edited by djr81

Did you ask the tuner if he found any problems? You don't mention adjustable cam gears. RB26s respond well to adjustment of cams.

And don't be shy - who was the tuner and how long did the tune take?

What fuel pump do you have and how old is it?

Same exhaust.... Still. If it's 10 years old and had been bumped on-off the car I would want to be sure that a baffle hasn't corroded and come loose etc. Easy enough to drop it snd check. Ditto rag in cooler pipe.

I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that head and springs are a problem until you have done basic checks.

Tuner can't guide you based on how engine responded to fuel and ignition numbers?

Same exhaust.... Still. If it's 10 years old and had been bumped on-off the car I would want to be sure that a baffle hasn't corroded and come loose etc. Easy enough to drop it snd check. Ditto rag in cooler pipe.

I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that head and springs are a problem until you have done basic checks.

Tuner can't guide you based on how engine responded to fuel and ignition numbers?

Yeah I think I will have to start with the exhaust and cat and then pull the timing belt cover off it to see where the cams are at.

I only asked the local bloke to stick it on the dyno and see that it was ok rather than to tune it. He didnt do the tune that is in the car, that was done in Perth and I am starting to suspect it is less than complete. He pulled a bit of fuel out and said it gained eight or so horsepower. Didnt ask about ignition as the fail was doing my head in. But 70-80hp is alot to explain away by tune or strapping it down fairly hard (his other throwaway comment) or any other thing.

It makes good torque or atleast as good as it ever has just after the knee point in the curve when the boost flattens out it doesnt keep making power.

The previous number was 408 hp on a hub dyno with 16lb.

It has a Nismo fuel pump and the afrs are in the11's.

So you have a fully forged engine but won't pay $1000 for a proper tune!

If it had a decent tune last time it my not take that much to bring it up to speed but 70 - 80 hp difference in tune is entirely possible - even more. And if you haven't got adjustable cam gears put a set on first so that your cams can be adjusted.

  • Like 1

I never said that at all.

The point is that Perth tuners are a 2.5 hour drive from home and then I need a bus ride to get home. So there is the best part of a full day gone and its repeated to collect the car. Two days off work costs me $2k before I start with the mechanics bill. Plus the favours I need to get the thing dropped off/picked up etc.

The last time it was tuned it was supposedly done properly by a supposedly good workshop in Perth but they couldn't diagnose a stuffed boost control solenoid and gave it back to me with low boost and 409rwhp on a hub dyno. The time before that with a different Perth workshop was even more of a train wreck.

I fixed the boost controlelr and the purpose of getting run up on a local dyno was to check it over on the assumption it was otherwise ok, not to tune it. But it made four more horsepower for four more pounds boost. Dyno disparities aside that isn't exactly winning.

Its got adjustable cam gears but I always viewed them as a nice to have for a few more hp, not a 20% gain. Nor do I really expect to find 80hp from some more ignition timing. Hence the thread asking for likely candidates.

For now it is:
Pull the exhaust and have a look.

Put it back on the dyno with the front cover off the motor and look at the tune.

But I don't have great hopes.

Johnnilicite: What would you expect the timing map to look like?

Edited by djr81

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...