Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so recently my r32 was dying due to the alternator not charging the battery, i took it out and replaced it with an rb25 alternator as i found they bolt right in and can be used on the rb20, went to reconnect my battery and got a couple sparks while doing so even though i made sure no electrics were on, however connected it up and car started up first go no worries. The problem is my electrics now dont work, no interior lights, no radio, no dash lights, no windows/mirrors. the parkers and headlights/tail lights still work and all mechanical components work normally, any ideas what this could be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459155-r32-electrics-gone/
Share on other sites

Not sure if r32 would have big wiring loom running inside the drivers side front guard but i had similar dramas with r33 electrics, coz of car being too low, tyres rubbed through the big wiring loom and all the wires were melted together.

post-140925-0-17271600-1440309667_thumb.jpg

post-140925-0-05080000-1440309697_thumb.jpg

i think they do however i'm fairly sure mine has been tucked and my car isnt crazy low either, i've never had any issues with my electrics but as soon as i turned the car on with the new alternator everything stopped working

so i'm pretty sure i found the problem, main fuse completely gone lol, the one that says 75A in the engine bay, does anyone know how much current an rb25 alternator flows? im assuming the rb20 ones flow 70A and rb25 flows more than 75A

The issue is when you first connected it up with the battery. That's when it blew. The car wasn't even running.

I don't believe the replacement alternators ampage is the issue as there is not a significant difference.

Well it can draw up to 90A.

No, it PRODUCES (up to) 90A, then feeds it back into the battery. That amperage does not go through the fusible links, there is no risk that the alternator can blow the links or other fuses.

FWIW, in the "olden days", my 180B SSS ran a quite small alternator - about 45A. Because it used 100W Cibie driving lamps in "rally car" trim, the alternator was upgraded to about 80A, with no other modification to the electrics, and no problems with fuses blowing. Such an upgrade was quite commoin in rally cars of the day (70s, 80s).

  • Like 1

the only problem was the power cable that looked like an earth, on the rb20 its too small to fit on the rb25 nut so you have to cut it and put a bigger one on, other than that its perfect fitment so i'd recommend it to anyone who's electrics seem weak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...