Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Might sound dumb and coming from na v8s it may not apply .

Surely it doesnt matter if boost starts at x rpm ... it the engine spins that hard?

I had a ford 5.4 lightened alot of the driveline and underdrove ancillaries.

And that used to just throw revs down. Surely a freely spinning driveline negates lag..

There is a difference between boost threshold and lag.

I think you are arguing for negation of a low boost threshold on the basis that an engine that can rev could be kept in the rev range where it is making boost. Superficially, that would seem correct, but it is only true for certain usage scenarios. Circuit racers, drag and perhaps rally are the main examples.

In the real world, you will often find yourself in the wrong gear. Simply needing to make a quick lane change in traffic is a good example. A responsive setup that makes boost from lower revs simply has to make more sense in this situation. And in the rest of the real world, no-one wants to be spinning their engine away at 4500 rpm, using heaps more fuel and wearing it out faster if they could be a gear or 2 higher and using 2000 less revs. Drive any car with an instantaneous fuel consumption display and see the difference for yourself, even just holding a constant speed.

Then there is lag. The real, and only true definition of lag is "the delay before boost is produced when opening the throttle at an engine speed wherein the engine would have been making boost if the throttle had already been open and load applied". This is to be taken to mean explicitly what it says. Lag is when you are already above the boos threshold revs but are not yet asking for boost. When you open the throttle, whatever the delay before you get boost, that's lag. The impacts on drivability of this real lag are effectively the complete destruction of normal NA throttle response. When driving through a tight turn and opening the throttle, an NA engine will start to make all the torque it is able to make from the moment you start to open the throttle. A turbo engine will start to make its NA torque, and then boost will arrive and it will start to ramp the torque level up (either a little or a lot, depending on how much boost we're talking about). Read some old Porsche 911 turbo reviews from the late 70s to find out what the consequences of lag used to be!!

People using the term "lag" to describe what the boost threshold of an engine is is just lazy misuse of the term. It is basically equivalent to the horrible GenY/GenZ use of the word "verse" to describe a competition between two entities. Somebody starts using it, and everybody thinks it's correct and uses it too. But it's not. And it sucks.

  • Like 4

GTSBoy, understand that I am only asking a question and do not want to change the way my car drives :no: well ?

When I bought my car it was aweful to drive under 5000rpm, does this mean that is how an N/A Skyline would drive or did it drive like that because of how the cams were dialled in for the bigger older T78 Turbo?

Blokes talk about strokers not being able to rev the way they like it, before I built my car I had read that Nitto 3.2 strokers go over 10,000rpm , no problem, well except for wearing the engine out more quickly, maybe dropping bits on the road. :woot:

I reckon with the extra torque I have now, I could put a different turbo on, like a PT7175 or EFR9180 that would still be drivable as a DD with 3.2Lt and the turbo would allow for much more top end power and would also kick in earlier compared to a 2.6Lt.

So if I wanted, I would have a car that would rev the same as a 26, more torque, more HP at the same revs and can drive it as a DD without changing down a gear when you come to a slope.

I have watched MANY vids of 26s on the track and love the way they sound up in the rev range and have only driven mine when it was a 26, no others, so my experience is practically ZERO and from what I have read the 26s can be sensational as a DD :yes:

  • Like 1

In general turbo car will never drive like an NA car due to one main difference, the compression ratio. But then you have the diffence in head design, cam specs and exhaust design.

However similar limitations exist when chasing power, as in cam selection, and modifying the above mentioned will all compromise low end torque and will drastically compromise drivability on the street. All things being equal you can have a much better behaved FI car than an NA car with similar power levels.

  • Like 2

GTSBoy, understand that I am only asking a question and do not want to change the way my car drives :no: well ?

When I bought my car it was aweful to drive under 5000rpm, does this mean that is how an N/A Skyline would drive or did it drive like that because of how the cams were dialled in for the bigger older T78 Turbo?

A 2.6L NA Skyline, especially a GTR with extra weight on board, would be an uninteresting thing to drive. Worse than a Camry. And that's for a completely normal NA engine. A turbo engine below the boost threshold has to deal with the lower compression ratio (as mentioned by XGTRX above) and the obstruction of the turbo in the inlet and exhaust tracts. There's a lot wrong with turbo engines when they don't have boost.

Logically, the best thing for any turbo engine is simply for it to be bigger. A good big turbo engine will always be better than a good small turbo engine. A classic example is when I converted my R32 from RB20 to a 25Neo. The RB20 is completely lacking in torque output unless it is on boost. The car is just slow before the turbo spins up. The 25Neo, even with only an extra 500cc or 25% of the RB20's capacity, makes a lot more torque when off boost and you can surf around the streets with smaller throttle openings and more urgent response to larger openings even before getting boost out of it. Logically, a 3L version would have to be even better. Logically then, a 3.2L version would be even better again. The only problem with chasing capacity is running up against the physical limits, whether they be mechanical or the breathing capacity of the head.

If I had a 3.2L big engine GTR like you I'd probably be happier to give up 500-1000rpm of boost response in order to obtain massive power - IF I was after massive power. The car would be nice to drive off boost anyway. BUT.....in general for a street car I'd probably not be looking for massive power so I'd probably stick with a more responsive setup so that I can transition from driving nicely off-boost to making enough power to run away from most challengers near on instantly, rather than waiting a bit longer for a stupidly large rush of power.

  • Like 2

Its a simple thing, get cubes add boost.

Ive been in a LS turbo conversion, stock motor, stock compression with a big single conversion and supporting fuel mods, bejeusus, 500+Rwkw on a E85 tune, it had a lot more in it but no forgies to risk it.

And thats still pulling strong from the get go before the turbo even kicks in.

The only let down is the Commonwhore chassis...

Everyone is assuming the option is to go for gold in the power field.... Not everyone wants a 500+KW street driven car.

What if you don't want to go for 450+KW, what if you don't want a single?

What if you want 300kw, subtle, street driven machine?

For some circumstances it just isn't required. Like i have stated many times. Everything is relative. What power goals? Cost restrictions on the entire build? Feel of how it drives? Fitment issues (if going 3L), and even legalities (in some states)

Honestly after all the cars i have been in, anything over about the 350kw mark is just making power "because i can" you seriously can't use it on the street. Anyone that says they do is kidding themselves. I had 320KW and it was already overkill. But don't get me wrong, track car is a completely different ballpark. I'm merely commenting on a street basis.

also

Strokers sound shit :nyaanyaa:

  • Like 2

Its a simple thing, get cubes add boost.

Ive been in a LS turbo conversion, stock motor, stock compression with a big single conversion and supporting fuel mods, bejeusus, 500+Rwkw on a E85 tune, it had a lot more in it but no forgies to risk it.

And thats still pulling strong from the get go before the turbo even kicks in.

The only let down is the Commonwhore chassis...

And they still get ripped by a 350kw GTR because in street trim they are slow. I was looking at doing FI on my clubby and went for a drive in a few both SCed anf TCed and realised it was a fkn waste of time.

All I can really say about these Skylines, is , I have come to luvem! luvem all :wub:

I have seen 2.6s, 2.8s, 3.0s and 3.2s with all sorts of build specs and think they are an amazing car.

Some of the builds I have followed have been sensational, some I am worried that I wont live long enough to see them finished, shit I was getting worried about mine still being in the shop when they were flushing my ashes down the brasco , lol

I think it comes down to this, build your car the way you want, listen to like minded people and learn from their experience, some people might not agree with what you are doing, but that is only their opinion and not worth shit, it is your car ! :yes:

  • Like 2

I think it comes down to this, build your car the way you want, listen to like minded people and learn from their experience, some people might not agree with what you are doing, but that is only their opinion and not worth shit, it is your car ! :yes:

Better still is to drive/experience as many setups as you can and find what YOU like.

Better still is to drive/experience as many setups as you can and find what YOU like.

Unfortunately easier said than done. Depends sometimes on where you live

I would imagine like many blokes, you buy the car first, sometimes because you like the look of them, believe the propaganda or just a spur of the moment thing, like I did !.

Out of all the cars I have bought, around 25 , this "was" the biggest disappointment and I have had some heaps of shit.

Whos fault, MINE :yes:​ I did not do my homework :no:

But now I am glad I bought it and lucky I used to have money in the bank :wub:

UP THE STROKERS :action-smiley-069:

And they still get ripped by a 350kw GTR because in street trim they are slow. I was looking at doing FI on my clubby and went for a drive in a few both SCed anf TCed and realised it was a fkn waste of time.

Because it couldn't lay the power down?

That seemed to be the only issue in the one i was in, till the owner fitted some ET Streets on it and sorted the suspension and stall converter.

I will comment that he mentioned i was the only one who didn't scare in the car, to me it felt slow too, it didn't impress me.

His drag slips said otherwise.

It was the way it laid the power down, totally different to the way we are use to in a GTR.....

  • Like 1

Yeah unimpressive due to the linear power delivery, each to their own I suppose.

maybe if your mate loaded up the engine to 4000 with his linear power then popped the clutch it would be more explosive for you?

They were all autos with hi stalls in them.

What's the point anyway. Bake the tires.... Wow.... Bring a sleeping bag next time

when I said my car previously would not move until 5500 you said a thing of beauty, I was just suggesting that you simulate that thing of beauty by pumping the clutch nothing I would do just suggesting it for you since it sounds like you love lag

You cannot call a car that wont go until you hit 5500 odd rpm , a street car. You cannot legally drive it anywhere on the street or highway and use it in that power range , to keep it going by the time you hit 2nd and ready for 3rd, it is time to hit the brakes ????

Having your neck snapped back when a turbo kicks in is really fun, well at first, but to drive around town in a thing "set up like that" is a nightmare. I KNOW THEY ARE ALL NOT SET UP LIKE THIS. I can only talk about what I have had experience in. As soon as you do something to make it more streetable the power becomes more linear.

I cannot believe your car is like that, you would have to kill yourself after a few weeks of this mental torture of knowing you should have the car in your garage, back of a truck or on the track.

The thing I like about linear power and it does not matter if it is 300kw or 500kw if your car is set up right, you can use it anywhere. You can drive it to the track and be very competitive , or have a street car that can be driven to church or Woolies and then go for a run and get the adrenalin pumping :w00t:

The very best thing about it, I like mine this way :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...