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Test For Coolant System Additives To Stop Leaks

Nismo 3.2ish

By Nismo 3.2ish,
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Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
Posted

I was wondering if there is a test to see if some sort of Chemical additive has been used to stop coolant leaks throughout the coolant system ?

Something like Bars or Chemiweld etc , what would be the main ingredient to look for in this type of product ?

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GTofuS-T
GTofuS-T

I'll be back in 100 pages...

Duncan
Duncan

well.... any of those things leave an obvious white residue when dry in either the top of the radiator or overflow bottle. I don't know of a test for the coolant either. But more importantly, you ca

tridentt150v
tridentt150v

Not yet, still waiting on a price for the Skyline.....thanks for asking though..............lmao!!! And yeah interested to know as well.

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Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

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Oh noes. :/

I hope you didn't use ARP2000 head bolts... You wouldn't be the first to lift a head at that power using them.

You could be right but they have been doing these builds for yonks?

What happens? It seems to be worse when on boost for a longer periods :(

I will check it out, thanks

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

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I've never heard of a test like you describe..

Which means that it doesn't exist.

Just because you have not heard about it , it does not mean it cannot be done.

Take water from the radiator and have it tested ?

That is why I asked for the main ingredient, makes it easier to know what you are looking for and cheaper :)

Wether or not it shows up is another question but worth a shot I guess :/

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

your head is lifting. If what I can only presume is loosing coolant is worsening on boost then boost is your issue, head studs.

turn down boost and see if it is as bad or none existent...

I think once again you are chasing the wrong tail.

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

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  • Author
Posted (edited)

your head is lifting. If what I can only presume is loosing coolant is worsening on boost then boost is your issue, head studs.

turn down boost and see if it is as bad or none existent...

I think once again you are chasing the wrong tail.

As the lose is a slow one it is hard to know exactly what is going on. I had turned the boost off before but if you push it there was still water being lost, could be 250mm to Sydney or the same pushing 60klm

What tail am I chasing wrongly this time, I am still trying to work out the other tail ??

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

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Oh noes. :/

I hope you didn't use ARP2000 head bolts... You wouldn't be the first to lift a head at that power using them.

Just found the invoice and the studs are 1/2" ARP head and main

I would think 1/2" is pretty substantial and are used in similar powered engines, but no personal experience.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well.... any of those things leave an obvious white residue when dry in either the top of the radiator or overflow bottle. I don't know of a test for the coolant either.

But more importantly, you can test for what is going wrong in a cooling system, it generally goes like this

1/ you notice it got way hot suddenly on a long drive

2/ you see lots of water missing and top up everything.

3/ you check the water after a few days driving and it is way low again

4/ you do a pressure test on the radiator (any mechanic can do it) which confirms there is a leak.

5/ you do a radiator gas analysis to confirm if there are any combustion gasses mixed in. If so you have some sort of head problem, if not you have a leak somewhere easier like radiator, hoses, turbo banjos, heater code etc etc. Might need a more specialist cooling system place for that

One shortcut with a badly blown head gasket is that with radiator cap off and some big revs that the radiator bubbles like crazy. Or even more obvious if you remove the oil cap and see milky oil (mixed oil and water). But these don't always happen

While it might be annoying (or lets face it, very f**king annoying on a $$$$ build) there is not much to be done if the engine was chemi welded. You can't take it back out, and it does often fix small problems.

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Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well.... any of those things leave an obvious white residue when dry in either the top of the radiator or overflow bottle. I don't know of a test for the coolant either.

But more importantly, you can test for what is going wrong in a cooling system, it generally goes like this

1/ you notice it got way hot suddenly on a long drive

2/ you see lots of water missing and top up everything.

3/ you check the water after a few days driving and it is way low again

4/ you do a pressure test on the radiator (any mechanic can do it) which confirms there is a leak.

5/ you do a radiator gas analysis to confirm if there are any combustion gasses mixed in. If so you have some sort of head problem, if not you have a leak somewhere easier like radiator, hoses, turbo banjos, heater code etc etc. Might need a more specialist cooling system place for that

One shortcut with a badly blown head gasket is that with radiator cap off and some big revs that the radiator bubbles like crazy. Or even more obvious if you remove the oil cap and see milky oil (mixed oil and water). But these don't always happen

While it might be annoying (or lets face it, very f**king annoying on a $$$$ build) there is not much to be done if the engine was chemi welded. You can't take it back out, and it does often fix small problems.

Have checked everything every morning since the build if I have driven the car the day before. It does not loose water when not driven.

It has never got to a stage where the water temp is higher than normal. About 70-72 degrees on the MFD and just under 1/2 on the temp gauge.

Oil is clean

Water is clean and no gas bubbles when revving

The car is booked in for Monday to do all the tests, so before I jump off the gap I will wait and see, lol

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

As usual you are willing to jump straight in there with a wealth of knowledge and give it you all, what a great person You are so helpful :wub:


So I will race out and buy 3 and see if I can stick them all together, sort of a power packed sequential with , PT 7675 , EFR9180 and GT47R , now if that does not fix the leak , nothing will :nyaanyaa:


Turbo is too small.... Get a bigger one..... Solves every problem in the world

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