Jump to content
SAU Community

What Would Your Fuel Pressure Be With The Fuel Pressure Regulator Deleted?


Recommended Posts

Like a de cat, If you just ran a straight through hose where the FPR normally sits, does anyone know what the fuel pressure would be in the stock fuel system running a 340lph pump?. Just at idle, you can negate injectors here.

I'm trying to bring my fuel pressure down and no matter what I do its always too high. I have checked there are no pinches anywhere. Stock fuel lines.

Before I spend money on a high end FPR I want to know if its even possible to go as low as I need, or I I need to change out the pump for flowing too much just the stock fuel line is enough of a restriction to raise the pressure above what I need.

Edited by sonicz

What car Sonicz?

The only cars I have had an issue with so far are the Evo's and S15's as there are restrictions in the return. Anything smaller than 4mm or so will bump the pressure up too much.

Its a 1998 R33 GTST. Do you have a picture of the restriction hose? Can you feel anything inside the hose if you squeese it? I have done everything I can to drop the fuel pressure, Nismo FPR is not enough, my only remaining option is to throw a lower flow pump and Its such as shame as this one was installed so well those years ago. Deep down in the hole and proper. I don't think I have the patience to do it again sitting in the boot like a monkey feeling around inside a dark hole.

Edited by sonicz

Never had an issue with the Skylines, only the s15 had a restrictor in the return hose off the reg. The Evo had a small return line in the tank.

Spit it out man - what pressure are you reading? What pump do you have? Have you tried pushing air though your return hose? If your pump was installed years ago why should it be too big now? What have you changed?

  • Like 1

I was reading 100+psi on my 32gtr. Turned out to be blocked @ the very end of the return line in the tank.

Disconnect the hose after the reg. Simply blowing into it will tell if it's blocked anywhere..

I'm guessing that if you did away with the FPR, you would have next to no fuel pressure at the injectors.

But it begs the question - why do you think you need to drop the fuel pressure? What pressure do you have now? And what do you think it is doing to the overall running of the engine?

Spit it out man - what pressure are you reading? What pump do you have? Have you tried pushing air though your return hose? If your pump was installed years ago why should it be too big now? What have you changed?

There's not much to spit out but I'll tell you what I know. My pressure was around 65psi at idle with the vacuum hose connected when I measured it. The pump I just got of ebay. It was a hi flow walbro type pump, possibly even a 400lph one. It was always too big, I just never knew it. Car originally felt ok after install but as the weeks went on it started acting weird and I guess I just never put two and two together or realised new the fuel pressure was so high.

No i have not tried blowing the return hose, but but its a great idea! So it should just blow with little no resistance? Do I need the fuel cap open for this? Should I wear lipstick?

33SOM, thx for the same idea as well.

Blind elk. Same as above.

Well It depends, the simple size of the stock fuel hoses would offer a certain pressure at a certain flow level. I was just curious what the pressure would be without an FPR with say for example at 340-400lph. Surely it wont be 0. Maybe it will be 2 or 20psi but it wont be 0.

Because I don't understand how a fuel pressure regulator can claim to have a certain range of adjust-ability without know the flow rate. For example if an FPR has a range of adjust-ability from 35-70psi, then if you flow twice that amount of whatever flow rate was used to get that reading, not matter how low you set the FPR you will never get get 35psi.

Edited by sonicz

Because I don't understand how a fuel pressure regulator can claim to have a certain range of adjust-ability without know the flow rate. For example if an FPR has a range of adjust-ability from 35-70psi, then if you flow twice that amount of whatever flow rate was used to get that reading, not matter how low you set the FPR you will never get get 35psi.

That's why a pressure reg IS a pressure reg. They are a variable orifice where the size of the hole is changed to maintain the pressure where the setpoint is. If there is low throiugh-flow, the hole gets smaller. The only times regs are a problem size are when the minimum hole size in it is too big (hence you can't maintain high enough pressure at the lowest through-flow) or the maximum hole size is too small and then you can't keep the pressure down when the is high through-flow).

That's why a pressure reg IS a pressure reg. They are a variable orifice where the size of the hole is changed to maintain the pressure where the setpoint is. If there is low throiugh-flow, the hole gets smaller. The only times regs are a problem size are when the minimum hole size in it is too big (hence you can't maintain high enough pressure at the lowest through-flow) or the maximum hole size is too small and then you can't keep the pressure down when the is high through-flow).

Exactly that last part I am talking about. If the maximum hole size is too small for a certain amount of flow, it wont be able to keep the pressure down below a certain amount no matter what its set to. Therefore the range of adjustability an FPR has is totally dependent of the flow rate.

Edited by sonicz

Yuh, but in practice, in the narrow world of RB engines, it's not an issue. The stock FPR is large enough to flow shit tonnes of fuel. Any aftermarket adjustable reg is sufficiently larger than that to flow even more shit tonnes.

Exactly that last part I am talking about. If the maximum hole size is too small for a certain amount of flow, it wont be able to keep the pressure down below a certain amount no matter what its set to. Therefore the range of adjustability an FPR has is totally dependent of the flow rate.

Stop trying to find an abstruse technical problem and just clear out your fuel line.. If by some chance it is not in fact blocked I can sell you an OEM GTR fpr for $10 plus postage.

Thanks for the offer, but I already have a few stock ones around and I find little value to non adjustable FPRs.

What value do you find an adjustable reg has? Today. Not 15 years ago.

What value do you find an adjustable reg has? Today. Not 15 years ago.

I don't really get why you are asking this question? What does the time frame of 15 years ago vs now have to do with anything? Not everyone has access to the latest and greatest tunes/computers injectors etc if its what you are implying.

The value of an adjustable reg depends on the circumstances, and in my case it has infinitely more value than a stock reg because it allows me to lower the fuel pressure to a more reasonable level, whereas a stock one does not, but even if we were generally speaking, what value do you not see they have?

They perform exactly the same function (if not better at it) as the stock reg, with the added bonus that they give you the ability to adjust the fuel pressure, should the need arise, or simply if you want to run a little richer or a little leaner without changing the tune. Or just to get that fuel pressure bang on. They have no downsides. If the need does arise, as in my case, its an easy tool you can use to lower or raise the fuel pressure.

I also think there is a misunderstanding somewhere. Are you guys under the impression that a properly working stock reg will keep a proper pressure in my case? I tried a few stock regs, they all perform identically, too high. Even with a perfectly functioning stock regulator, my pressure will be too high. I reason that its simply because the pump is flowing too high, not because there is anything wrong with the stock regs or my setup. The lines seem ok. So no stock reg will be able to do the job in this case. And I don't see why you guys keep bringing up stock regs?

It is this same line of thinking that the stock regulator somehow is able to maintain proper pressure (even if you install a high flowing pump) that got me into trouble by installing a higher flowing pump in the first place without being prepared for it. It doesn't do that based on what I have seen. If you fit a 400lph pump, the fuel pressure will be too high running the stock reg on stock fuel lines no matter what. Maybe there is something wrong with my setup, but I suspect that is how it would be in any car running the the stock reg.

Who is running a 400lph pump and has the stock rb25det reg keeping 43psi? I don't think thats possible. If anyone has evidence to the contrary I'm curious.

A user called kingtube69 recently installed a 400lph pump, and he said his fuel pressure was too high afterwards. Which makes sense because he is now flowing more, so he needed an adjustable reg to lower the pressure. The stock reg cant keep 43pis anymore. Same as in my case. I don't think its a matter of stock regs going bad by coincidence when you fit a new pump, and I don't think you can say to him the stock regs are fine. They suddenly become useless. You need an adjustable reg if you have a much higher flowing pump than stock, unless you want to tune for and run whatever higher fuel pressures your stock FPR decides to give, which I am not in that position. I need it at 43psi, so a stock FPR is a paper weight to me.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459719-wiring-questions-for-intank-fuel-pump-upgrade/

Edited by sonicz

By pass your reg as a test, or in other words take it off the rail and use a fitting to connect the return line directly to the fuel rail.

Whats your fuel pressure now?

If low you need a bigger reg as the stocky cant flow enough out.

But if your smarts, you would try to blow through the return line first as its the most probable logical issue you may have.

"It is this same line of thinking that the stock regulator somehow is able to maintain proper pressure (even if you install a high flowing pump) that got me into trouble by installing a higher flowing pump in the first place without being prepared for it. It doesn't do that based on what I have seen. If you fit a 400lph pump, the fuel pressure will be too high running the stock reg on stock fuel lines no matter what. Maybe there is something wrong with my setup, but I suspect that is how it would be in any car running the the stock reg."

The "somehow" is by means of a spring. I have a Walbro fed surge tank with a Bosch 044 pushing more than stock flow through my still stock FPR.

Do yourself a favour and do the simple no cost exercise of blowing though your return line before you go to the trouble of fitting a new pump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...