Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey folks,

I have a lock nut on each wheel which I need to get off but don’t have the key. If anyone has a welder and is willing to spend an hour or so to weld some bolts on so I can get the lock nuts off that would be great. I can make it worth your while and buy you a carton of beer or something.

Alternatively, if anyone has a set of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Easy-Off-Locking-Lug-Nut-Removal-Set-AETEO-Brand-New-/191619648896 (apologies about external link) they’re willing to lend me that would be great. I live in Kinross, Perth.

Thanks in advance

Amir

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460234-removing-lock-nut-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Take it to a tyre place and they will do it easily for you. I spent days trying to work out a solution and buying sockets to see if I could belt them on. In the end it was very easy to just take it to a tyre place and they will do the work.

Take it to a tyre place and they will do it easily for you. I spent days trying to work out a solution and buying sockets to see if I could belt them on. In the end it was very easy to just take it to a tyre place and they will do the work.

Yeah tyre places have made short work of mine in the past (more than once ... :( )

I managed to get the rear lock nuts off. One by smashing a smaller size socket onto it. The other, by using some bolt extraction sockets I got from bunnings. They have a circular/wavy pattern on the inside similar to the ones I posted a photo of. The fronts are not playing ball. I will see how I go on the weekend.

Appreciate the help folks.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...