Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well if its a piston ring or something it is in to some serious time/money to refresh and depending on how long the other guy ran it could be one hell of a head ache.

Hope it is just the HG then you will be away laughing.

Even with that shitty compression the engine should still start and run. (will probably be rough). If it was mine, I would persevere in getting the thing started, just to get a bigger picture of the overall condition of everything else and then making a more informed decision on wether to fix or part. As said a hg is your best hope and may or may not be the issue. I have replaced one before, it is a time consuming job but not all that difficult, there are plenty of guides online and if u can get someone with some mechanical knowledge and tools to lend a hand it is very do able.

good news !! i got it started !! although it ran rough. had to keep foot lightly on accelerator otherwise i recon it would of conked out.thing is loud as hell lol

i couldnt rev it past 2500rpm (somewhere around that mark ) is that due to compression or using stock ecu with 800cc injectors and no afm,,or both lol

im just happy i got it started.ill put more fuel in, i noticed the fuel light was still on when i started. for some reason fuel pump wasnt giving me a reading after putting fuel in and turning ignition on ( maybe from having it unplugged ? )

not really sure where to go from here

also when i reved to 2500rpm it pretty much stayed there. sounded like fuel cut or something. so im guessing thats from using stock ecu ?

minds racing right now thinking what to do now lol

ok thats what i figured. i cant really spend anymore money for a few weeks now. so i;ll google how to set up the vipec ecu. assuming its not damaged. it was giving 2 error codes last time i checked but they werent serious ones from what i remember.anyone have any links on how to set it up ? i could print screen my laptop while using the software and maybe someone will notice what wrong in the setup ?

you're welcome... lol i talked to someone at vi-pec and this is the reply i got " Unfortunately I am going to be the bearer of bad news. There is almost a 100% chance the reverse voltage will have damaged the ECU. When this happen it often takes out the ignition drives and the Aux output drives often with extensive PCB damage. Best bet for a start will be to open the ECU and see how bad it looks. If the PCB has damage it could be a costly repair"

so i guess i'll be opening up the ecu tomorrow and i'll take a photo and send it to him. but not liking my chances. sucks cause that's an exspensive ECU :(

definitely cant afford a new one for awhile which sucks.

New ecu and engine rebuild.

Then see if clutch and gearbox, brakes and suspension are ok.

Have you checked to see how rusty the chassis rails are yet.

you're welcome... lol i talked to someone at vi-pec and this is the reply i got " Unfortunately I am going to be the bearer of bad news. There is almost a 100% chance the reverse voltage will have damaged the ECU. When this happen it often takes out the ignition drives and the Aux output drives often with extensive PCB damage. Best bet for a start will be to open the ECU and see how bad it looks. If the PCB has damage it could be a costly repair"

so i guess i'll be opening up the ecu tomorrow and i'll take a photo and send it to him. but not liking my chances. sucks cause that's an exspensive ECU :(

definitely cant afford a new one for awhile which sucks.

Supposing that its repairable what are your chances of finding the person who tuned it last and seeing if they have the tune saved on their computer? If so that would be a good starting point to get it running.

I think we have proof that the ECU suffered. Only having some of the coils working is a solid indicator. That would tend to suggest that the ECU may need to be considered no longer useful. From that point, the question becomes.....what do you do now?

Fixing the ECU probably really means a whole new board rather than hours spent replacing components, testing and hoping that there isn't other damage hidden in there waiting to pop up once it starts working properly. A whole new board has got to be a large % of the whole ECU price.

You have a stock ECU and could Nistune it, but that is $ and then you'd need AFMs which adds more $$.

And then you have at least a head gasket, possibly other detonation damage, etc etc.

Parting the car might be the smartest option.

I agree, you have an RB26 with issues and a damaged ECU both of which are going to cost cubic dollars to fix properly.

Part it out and buy a runner, you'd be surprised how much you'll get for the components.

Hrrm I'm not sure what to do now. And for parting it out. I wouldn't know what to put prices on everything and I can't be bothered taking it all apart either lol. Well I'll check the ecu tomorrow and take a pic and go from there.ill look into nistune too see how to see how much. I had my bluebird ecu nistuned. Don't remember it costing that much. I have a z32 afm if that's possible to use

I started the car again earlier to make a video. It wouldn't start unless I primed the fuel pump a couple of times. Not enough fuel pressure or something? Was getting a couple of little backfires whole idling too. Probably a bit of shitty fuel? I don't know my brain hurts from all of this lmao

I'm putting the video on YouTube soon and I'll post the link

You can look through the for sale ads here to see what people sell parts for. You'll get shouted down if people think you're too expensive and you'll get dozens of PMs if your prices are low.

It's not that Nistune is expensive, but by the time you buy the board and get it fitted, then tuned, you're looking at >$1k. So you have to factor that into your comparison against trying to make the Vipec work. And you can't use a single Z32 - you need 2.

With respect to the car running.....this seems to be surprising given how many coils you supposedly didn't have working. If I had a 6 cylinder with only a couple of cylinders firing, I would hesitate to call running "running" and my language about backfires/pops and throttle blips would likely be a lot stronger than yours. Maybe your ECU is not as borked as we fear.

all coils are working with the stock ecu. i didnt try start it with the vipec since i knew it was only sparking on 1 or 2 cylinders. i changed all the spark plugs after i did the compression tests too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...