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With something like this, I guess it would be ok right ?

60264d1287625443-g35-carputer-climate-co

Yep, you need that plus the the fascia (I have a black one if you are interested)

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456651-wtb-stagea-m35-centre-dash/

Or cut your fascia like this.

post-135423-0-93552100-1445928739_thumb.jpgpost-135423-0-64964500-1445928753_thumb.jpg

Or get the Metra kit.

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally took the fascia out, unfortunately for me, the climate control unit is part of the radio board...

Looked up online to get the climate control board only but couldn't find any, does anyone have a link ?

Weird that it's part of the HU board, does it get power from the HU harness ?

Val, the climate control is a separate harness 6 or 8 pin if memory serves.

However its one PCB for both HU and climate control.

You are best off getting the kit Metra kit (I got mine from Amazon took 5 days to get here) http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-7604-Installation-2003-2004-Infiniti/dp/B000VYK90Q$288AUD delivered

or the separate board/buttons that datmoo posted above

Actually, I found one but it's quite expensive ($406AUD + $30 delivery) :(https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/16821

I'd rather avoid using the metra kits, buttons seems real cheap..

Edited by valf

If you want to avoid the metra kit (i don't blame you they look and feel like junk). Your best bet would be to get an OE double DIN fascia from (Yahoo) Japan via Import Monster or Jessie Streeter.

e.g: http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g164554402

Actually, I found one but it's quite expensive ($406AUD + $30 delivery) :(https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/16821

I'd rather avoid using the metra kits, buttons seems real cheap..

they are kinda crappy , but they do the job well.

  • 2 years later...
On 25/10/2015 at 4:24 PM, malialipali said:

UPDATE!

Sound Glorious sound !!! Ended up going to Bunnings (couldn't wait for 11am for shops to open) bought 6 RCA ends and made up my own cables , soldered them into the ISO connector.

Works absolutley perfectly and the , surprised actually how good it sounds.

Gonna wire in the sub signal separately to have explicit control.

Thank you all for your help - all I needed was confirmation there was a separate speaker amp in the end.

hey mate, ive had the same problem as you, no sound, do you remember how you m,ade the cable? like a wiring diagram i could follow to do the same thing you did

Hi Sorry for not seeing this sooner. 

you can just use regular RCA cables or solder up your own from ends ( i did that cause I needed to put the car together that morning so I went to bunnings at the crack of dawn) 

As you need a lo output from the stereo to drive the amp. All you need to do is.
Buy  2x RCA cables. Cut in half and trim to size. You need 5  in total. 4X for the speakers and 1x Sub

The plugs go into the back of the stereo and the wire ends get pinned or soldered to the corresponding speaker wire on the harness.
https://aerpro.com/app0120

 For the sub output you will need to run a signal wire all the way back to the amp under the trim on the right hand side in the boot. You will also need to run a trigger wire from your deck to the amp. 

My deck has been in and unchanged near 2.5 years and has worked perfectly. 

Let me know if I can help further. 

 

 

 

 

  • 9 months later...

I bought a new head unit and am having the same problem as everyone else. The new HU is a pioneer mvhs405bt. It has no sub input but does have front and rear RCA's if I follow your guide will this get me sound without having to run wires to the amp in the rear if I don't care too much about the sub working

On 2/1/2019 at 2:44 PM, Mtecher35 said:

I bought a new head unit and am having the same problem as everyone else. The new HU is a pioneer mvhs405bt. It has no sub input but does have front and rear RCA's if I follow your guide will this get me sound without having to run wires to the amp in the rear if I don't care too much about the sub working

So, what I did any way was.

Used Nissan to ISO connector Dna Awh3120.

ISO to pioneer aepro APP0120.

Connected them up then ran a wire from the blue/white wire in the aepro connector to the green/yellow on the oem loom which is on the speaker connector. Mine only has the rear speakers in it, there are two extra wires. 

One is the G/Y,  I then cut the aerial cable off and soldered an ordinary one on.

I put a cheap deck in, a MVHS405bt. I can't play it over about 1/4 volume, it's so oooo loud. I can get all Sydney stations.

Edited by Mtecher35

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