Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I hooked up an oil temp gauge b4 fitting the cooler just to see what the oil was doing. On a 20 deg day oil temp was sitting between 87-90 degrees. I did the same test with the cooler fitted and temp was around 74. I then blocked airflow to the cooler and ran the test again and got 84-86 which I'm comfortable with. I will monitor this when winter comes and see if a thermostat will be required. The oil lines in the kit where way too long, at this stage I have just found an interesting route to run them along and have covered the areas that would rub on anything with foam padding. Once I work out exactly what I'm going to do come winter time I will then cut the oil lines down to the exact required lengths. Will be interesting to see how this budget kit performs on the track. If all goes well I will find out on Jan 30 at Sandown.

I have also ordered a China alloy rad and should see that in the next few days. That will complete the cooling mods. I'll just be left with finishing with the brakes, installing the white line swaybar kit and some castor arms with offset poly bushes I've got lying around. That will complete this round of mods. For the next round im contemplating a hicas eliminator and some front camber arms.

I have also ordered a China alloy rad and should see that in the next few days. That will complete the cooling mods. I'll just be left with finishing with the brakes, installing the white line swaybar kit and some castor arms with offset poly bushes I've got lying around. That will complete this round of mods. For the next round im contemplating a hicas eliminator and some front camber arms.

Nice work Bill!

Funny you are getting hicas elim and front camber arms - I'm ordering hicas elim and REAR camber arms this week lol. Going to get the kits from Otomoto if that helps you at all!

What radiator are you getting? I was looking at the china worley ones form fleabay :D

Nice work Bill!

Funny you are getting hicas elim and front camber arms - I'm ordering hicas elim and REAR camber arms this week lol. Going to get the kits from Otomoto if that helps you at all!

What radiator are you getting? I was looking at the china worley ones form fleabay :D

Yeah, eBay spec rad. ASI brand. I'm pretty sure all those alloy rads asi, worley, gp1 and so on all come out of the same factory. I bought the asi one as that seller seems to sell a lot of them and most customers are happy. I will look into otomoto down the track for the other bits. Cheers Jacob.

All the eBay radiators are the same, ASI, Worley, GPI, the welds all look the same and the top tank has that ridge.

They work pretty well for street use, drags, and moderate track use with moderate power. I only starting having some slight overheating issues once I started making some decent power and mind you that was on a 37 degree day on the track.

Other than that, I've done track days in Autumn, Winter, Spring with the same power and the car will power down 8~10 laps without the water going more than 105 degrees.

  • Like 3

^Just as I suspected. All from 1 big China sweat shop. Thanks for the run down of their performance Johnny. Pretty much mirrors my experience with them on my old s15 and since I'm at best an amateur wannabe racer I think the rad will fit the bill perfectly:D

All the eBay radiators are the same, ASI, Worley, GPI, the welds all look the same and the top tank has that ridge.

They work pretty well for street use, drags, and moderate track use with moderate power. I only starting having some slight overheating issues once I started making some decent power and mind you that was on a 37 degree day on the track.

Other than that, I've done track days in Autumn, Winter, Spring with the same power and the car will power down 8~10 laps without the water going more than 105 degrees.

Yeah, eBay spec rad. ASI brand. I'm pretty sure all those alloy rads asi, worley, gp1 and so on all come out of the same factory. I bought the asi one as that seller seems to sell a lot of them and most customers are happy. I will look into otomoto down the track for the other bits. Cheers Jacob.

Thanks guys, good to know they are all the same. I thought my car was hot the other day hauling ass up the mountains LOL got to 95 and I was freaking out lol. 105 jesus.

Let me know how you go with the rad Bill. Johnny is the one who inspired me to look at getting one also :D

I've seen my car hit 115 degrees water but I was doing a hotlap so I hit the mute button LOL...

Car still lives, radiator still not warped and more boost going into it when I get my new turbo (after I get off my arse and send my old one back in) haha

^Just as I suspected. All from 1 big China sweat shop. Thanks for the run down of their performance Johnny. Pretty much mirrors my experience with them on my old s15 and since I'm at best an amateur wannabe racer I think the rad will fit the bill perfectly:D

Just make sure you flush out the radiator properly and before you do all of that make sure you sand down the fittings on the radiator or your stock overheat fan thermoswitch won't sit flush... I found out the hard way LOL...

Screwed it in, noticed the slight gap, installed it into car.. filled it up... bam... leak... removed radiator, removed swtich, sanded it down with a block, re-installed and bam no more.. been going hard for 3 years.

  • Like 1

For both of us ;)

Can either of you confirm what size is the biggest you can go and still fit the fan shroud?

I'm not really sure to be honest. I just bought one that said direct fit. Core size is 400 x 650 x 52mm. I'll have to measure the external size once it arrives. I'm pretty sure all the eBay ones are the same size regardless of what the seller claims. Some say 40mm core some say 52mm. Can't believe anything these days. We'll see what turns up. Lucky dip:lol:

43mm thickness, and that gives you approximately 1.5cm clearance between the fan shroud and fan blades.. however there have been incidents where at high RPM the fan flexes just enough to smash into the shroud.. I believe this happened to SimonR32 on this forum.

Best way around is to trim off the flat area of the fan shroud

43mm thickness, and that gives you approximately 1.5cm clearance between the fan shroud and fan blades.. however there have been incidents where at high RPM the fan flexes just enough to smash into the shroud.. I believe this happened to SimonR32 on this forum.

Best way around is to trim off the flat area of the fan shroud

Thanks guys and sorry to hijack the thread Bill!

My mate had stock fan and stock rad with shroud and went through two radiators in the space of 4 days (and 500 worth of towing) because of an unbalanced fan (slightly bent fin) then when it spun up at RPM it caught the shroud and went into the top off the rad lol.

Anyway - Carry on gents

Yum cha radiator arrived and was fitted yesterday. All went well. Thanks to johnny for the tip about sanding the fitting at the bottom, the sensor still wouldn't sit flush so I put a fat o ring on it and that was that. No leaks. Was a tightish fit but fitted well. Only issue is my factiry cai inlet just fouls on the back of the fan cover so needs a slight trim or slight movement of air box. Bleeded and taken for a couple of drives since. Temp is sitting at 86-87 consistently.

Pic of finished product.

post-139042-14521684510413_thumb.jpg

Also did the rear brakes today. Same deal as the front, Nissan pads where still in there and there discs where almost factory size. Measured up at 17.8mm so I left the discs on and fitted the qfm hpx pads. So I've got a1rm on the front and hpx on the back. Why the mismatch u ask? I paid 55 per end and that's what I managed to secure. I also replaced and bled the fluid with penrite 10 tenths. While I had the car on the stands I also put on some different castor arms I had with offset poly bushes. My car still had the factory bushes. Wtf its like nothing has ever been changed on this car. Lol.

Tomorrow I'll get around to putting the white line swaybar kit on.

post-139042-14521698653607_thumb.jpg

post-139042-14521698949332_thumb.jpg

post-139042-14521699170195_thumb.jpg

post-139042-14521699325598_thumb.jpg

post-139042-14521699531546_thumb.jpg

Nice work - So the radiator fit with the fan shroud?

be careful with those caster arms, I got stung by a shop I will not name for a big alignment bill because (speaking from the aligners perspective) "Everytime I had to make an adjustment, I had to pull the alignment tools off then take off the arm then put everything back on and repeat till it was right"

The bill was significantly more than I was quoted despite me telling them what setup I had. None the less the alignment was great so I'm not complaining.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
    • Off the back of feedback we have decided to mix up this next Motorkhana at Avalon to have some targeted skills practice for beginners to advanced. Saturday 6th September 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Friday 5th February  Where: 55 beach road Avalon. https://maps.app.goo.gl/HNUE3EuNue3sJxh38 Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher recommended (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. Entry Link > https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250906 You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List: 1.Anna S 2. Luke S 3. Jesse Givens-Lamb 4. Luca Stamatescu 5. Madeleine Stamatescu    
    • Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?
×
×
  • Create New...