Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Small update. Fitted some Cusco front camber arms today. Set them for max neg, should be around -2.5°.

I've had these for a long time but couldn't find a how to article. Turns out I spent more time looking for fitting instructions than how long it actually took to fit. Was done in under an hour. 3 bolts each side and boom, done.

I've got some Cusco tension rods to fit also and there is some whiteline rear camber arms and hicas lock bar in the mail. Will hopefully fit these during the week and get an alignment on Saturday.

Some pics of the install.acdafa77b40734d63abeb8c1beade7a5.jpg

4325c8b50516f37ef08ea823b87381f6.jpg

01ffd2add388bf784f5c6109b1e7f702.jpg

e24f4f51f9d811a6a0433dde85ff7c1f.jpg

27622a222b0992a581d7ddcc83771480.jpg

c2cda75650bf949653706887face65c1.jpg

d9410d9cd77ccdc07a0e3521d7c3130c.jpg

6f848314eddd5129372e4c54b61a648e.jpg

2cd802bd59ad530df956de7847db713d.jpg

58b92bad75c0ecfe19914f1612e8a3e2.jpg

  • Like 3
OHHHHHHHHHHH NO YOU DIDN'T [emoji20]

oh. btw.. SPOOLA R33 is for sale at $28k... runs 10s


That is a very nice car. I like the way he's gone about building it. But I'd rather build than buy. Also, its got a homo auto in it. May as well buy a Honda instead[emoji38]

Managed to fit a hicas lockbar the other day.91c5e3a0d32b64cfa36917d859855696.jpg

Get out. Lol.

832c8ef12a20b66f2734ec941c0beede.jpg

b19ce2a3196003df2b03d52de7df27ac.jpg

Weight reduction[emoji3]

I know a hicas eliminator would have been better but this only took half an hour to do and since the ball joints are still in pretty good shape I went with this gktech lock bar.

I also fitted some Cusco tension rods. These where GTR items, I had them modded by the machinist at work. Needed to trim around 6mm of material off each crush tube end to accommodate for the gtst narrower bush width. The threads on the other end where the nuts go were extended to the bottom also. I also had 2mm machined off the lower lock nut to make sure I can get the castor angle I want. Lol. After all this they fit fine[emoji3]

d6d534c2134901f66541fdfcfc5d8fa0.jpg

3b5d9ad9ae2c78a08b75aa893fa9da9d.jpg

37344de97ed196d11dfb99a59e99f6eb.jpg

b480114a25b8709d72015eabe895c509.jpg

I had these spacers machined up, so if ever decide to sell these they can still be used on a GTR. Wider market.

a5c81be2bce1ab1c1caaa58aaea2ff86.jpg

e45c2b8bc33deaa10d235ae61596ee73.jpg

And fitted up

107380dfbbb2f43e1014c5fe7ef8e653.jpg


Plenty of castor[emoji3]

2968f3533062767628c4281729cfefc2.jpg

And a little neg camber.



  • Like 1
Just now, Count Grantleyish said:

Nice work Bill, finally gotten around to fit them hey?

Yep, finally. The tension rods needing to be modified had me procrastinating for a while. Thanks again for the cusco items. Ironically I also bought a set of whiteline rear camber arms exactly like the ones you where selling, waiting on those to arrive. So pretty much, i'll be running exactly the same arms you had in your car once upon a time.

2fc5eca592e23dc73d0c62cd5f73c7b0.jpg

486892a8e7bf724ea9824590e83850f4.jpg

As can be seen in the pics above, the drivers side swaybar link is leaning outwards and the passenger slightly inward, almost straight. I cant really slide the swaybar across any more to correct it,(maybe 2mm) as then i'll have clearance issues with the insides of the tyres scrubbing. I will revisit this after I have a wheel alignment done but can anyone see anything that appears out of the ordinary there with the swaybar install to cause that. Worse case scenario I can run some 5mm spacers on the front wheels to gain a bit of clearance but I'd rather not do that. Everything else on the front end there looks fine, I cant see anything that looks wrong.

22 minutes ago, Trex said:

Ironically i bought those rear whiteline arms, and just purchased some cusco front arms :P . I used whiteline tension rod bushes though.

 

Looking good mate!

Thanks Trex. I just removed whiteline tension bushes, Very ironic indeed. Lol.

That's a lot of movement. You may need some lateral locks or risk one of the endlinks snapping.

I personally have never had this amount of movement, or my bar possibly self corrects before stopping.

 

You can buy whiteline lateral locks which help minimize lateral movement.

 

 

The swaybar isn't moving under load, I've had to position it like that so that the tyre doesn't rub on it at full lock turning right. Something weird is going on there, just haven't had time to sit there and work it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...