What Items To Look Out For With A Rwc In Vic?

[ausdrift]

Alrighty, so Wifey is looking to buy her first car soon and that means, no doubt, having to organize a RWC for it.

As neither of us have done this before in Vic, Im still getting my head around the processes and requirements. Like I believe that the seller is meant to provide it, but in reality most times they wont.

Anyway, apart from basic obvious things to do with the condition of the car, like having proper tyres, no leaks, seat belts working etc etc, my question is this...

What less obvious things will mechanics often pick up on and try get you to repair when doing a RWC?

And what are the more dodgy claims they will try to add to the fix-it list?

Thanks

[gtr jet]

It really depends on where you take it. Some are more lenient than others but I'm assuming it'd be fairly similar to whatever state you're from.

One of the first quotes I has was $25ea to replace the LPG tags on my number plates. Obviously I want elsewhere and saved myself $1000 in the end.

List where you're from so we can make some recommendations.

[admS15]

best way is to find a car to buy with rwc supplied. Just about all mechanics out there will want to make a dollar off you whether your car requires any work or not. In general if the car has good tyres, brakes, all lights working, seat belts undamaged, windscreen undamaged, headlights aimed correctly, no oil dripping onto the ground and no illegal mods then you should be ok. They usually charge around $150 for an inspection and certificate, you then have the option of fixing any defects yourself, having the mechanic or someone else fix them for you and then returning the car within 7 days for second inspection. Much easier to just purchase a car with rwc supplied. Don't ask me how I know

[ausdrift]

Yeah I hope to get a car with one, but ive heard people will turn around and say "sure it comes with RWC, or without for $500 less" so obviously im going to take the lesser option (unless there are obvious defects).

I actually found a PDF from vic roads which goes into details of what needs to be in what condition, but I can expect that mechanics, like you say, are out to make a buck so im wondering what are the first things they will try on

[admS15]

If its the difference of $500, just pay it. It will be unlikely that u will get a rwc for less than that and also save yourself the time and hassle.

[ausdrift]

Im out near Camberwell way.

And your saying unlikely to get a RWC for under $500? How? I know the inspection fee would be, lets say, $150 but from looking at the Vic roads document it seems like a well kept car should have little to pick up on.

Is it that your average person doesn't keep their car fastidiously roadworthy (like myself) or are there things people typically neglect, or that mechanics pick on?

[admS15]

As I said. Mechanics want to make a buck. They will more than likely try make u spend money on something in my experience. On older cars there are so many things they can pick. For example 1 tried to make me remove the shocks to replace the bump stops and rubber boots because the boots where cracked.

[GTRPSI]

Generally speaking, if your selling a car (seller), the guy doing the RWC will go over it thoroughly because if there is a issue with what was checked within the 30 days after he inspected it, he can be in a world of shit for signing off on a car that was not Road Worthy if the buyer dobs him in for road worthy issues 30 days after the certificate was signed off.

When going to get a RWC and you are the buyer (already own it but need a RWC), some mechanics can sometimes overlook small things if they know you, as they assume you wont dob in your own car that you bought as it will end up costing you money to fix.

Its best to get a RWC already supplied when buying a car OR to arrange that the owner of the car takes it to your mechanic to have the test done and make it clear to your mechanic that you want it perfect.

Seller will foot the bill and the repairs list, and you know its going to be done right and not cost you more money the moment you bought it.

Last RWC i had done cost me a $1000 and i supplied all the parts......if they want to be carnts when testing they will.....remember its the tester license on the line and they owe you no favors.

In my case i STFU and paid because i sold the car for top $ and the buyer wanted it quick.

Edited November 7, 2015 by GTRPSI

[Leroy Peterson]

ive had a car fail roadworthy due to old dustcaps on stock shocks. they can do you for anything.

i prefer to get the seller to sort the RWC, unless you buy it cheap and plan to fix known issues yourself. but then the car isnt listed in your name until the roadworthy is done and vicroads transfer it to your name.

[Robzilla32]

In VIC an RWC can be failed for all sorts even stuff that technically isn't an RWC item. Glass doesn't look clear; mechanic doesn't like coilovers; multiple intake mods; hi-cas light on; hi-cas locked out.

Engine bay photos are taken also.

[ausdrift]

This all sounds as dodgy as I was expecting. If there are clear rules/guidelines set out by VicRoads for what needs to be done and how, then I don't see how workshops can have the power to fail dubious things, as you should be able to wave the document in their face and argue it. I understand the point about how its the workshop taking the risk of passing off a car as safe, but surly the threat of people reporting their shop to vicroads for going outside their rules would be a risk for them too.

But that's life, I guess

[gtr jet]

This all sounds as dodgy as I was expecting. If there are clear rules/guidelines set out by VicRoads for what needs to be done and how, then I don't see how workshops can have the power to fail dubious things, as you should be able to wave the document in their face and argue it. I understand the point about how its the workshop taking the risk of passing off a car as safe, but surly the threat of people reporting their shop to vicroads for going outside their rules would be a risk for them too.

But that's life, I guess

It's more the fact that some things don't necessarily need replacing for a roadworthy, say a power steering rack that has a slight leak. but to the people that have no idea they will say a completely new unit is needed.

[Kinkstaah]

This all sounds as dodgy as I was expecting. If there are clear rules/guidelines set out by VicRoads for what needs to be done and how, then I don't see how workshops can have the power to fail dubious things, as you should be able to wave the document in their face and argue it.

There are rules for it.

I don't know why people don't print it out, and then show it to them and say "This XYZ is NOT a roadworthy item".

[admS15]

coz then they pick something out that is a rwc item and is gonna cost you 10 times as much. lol

[Gareth]

It's a total load of shit, i once owned a car for a month so the roadworthy that i brought the car with had only expired about 4 days previously and i had to get the windscreen polished (want clear enough) and some glue injected into the steering wheel to firm it up because you could twist it a little.

My advice would be of there are a couple of things you know are wrong (but are cheap to repair) don't fix them up before you go, if the mechanic has a couple of legitimate things to put down he is less likely to make up stupid shit.

As others have said way better to save the hassle and buy car with rwc already, however if you find the car you want and rwc isn't an option (as is often the case with skylines) i have found it to be a better experience as a buyer getting a rwc as opposed to being the seller.

[Birds]

They tend to be less fussy if you're the buyer getting a RWC, as you just want the car on the road and aren't selling dodgy repaired things to someone incurring liability for the workshop. If seller provides a RWC then they will be more thorough to make sure the buyer doesn't take any issue up with them afterwards when they discover dodgy shit and the buyer puts their hands in the air / lawsuits ensue.