Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just want to know if it's possible, or who can weld a either a stainless steel / mild steel muffler to a titanium cat back exhaust ?

Has anyone done had this done ? Is one easier to weld then the other ? (Stainless or mild )

Any info would be much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460922-welding-titanium/
Share on other sites

Ti won't weld well to mild or stainless, as Ben said keep the flange the same material as the tube. Even mild flanges with stainless tube is a bad idea, but that's what most shops use when making stainless systems.

Whatever the interface is, whilst it be Ti-SS, there'll be no galvanic corrosion between them. So you're safe there.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15246296

Yep, I've got 2 Ti plates, and 12 SS screws in my arm;

No issues so far... ;)

Don't have Titanium welded by anyone who doesn't have experience with doing so...

You need to setup a tig torch with a trailing gas lens in order to protect the molten pool form atmospheric contaminants, Titanium requires the molten pool to be kept as cool as physically possible when being welded...

Ti to SS is another level up again and wouldn't be recommended by most, as a few of the guys have suggested I would get flanges welded and join that way.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Good to see you got the problem sorted - just thought I would post this reply

Welding SS and Ti also needs purging on the rear of the welds to ensure no contaminants are drawn into the weld while cooling - if you get the amps correct and the FZ or freeze zone then you can run a continuous stainless weld and not have the dark grey or carbons being sucked in because it freezes before the shielding gas exits the weld and nice salmon or rainbow welds,

Some use a gas lens on the torch which disperses a more even gas shield on the top welds or they will use a trailing purge as well. With the rear of the weld You can either get someone to shield opposed side with a purge tube while you weld, or purge the complete inside tube with end caps and purge hose as argon is heavier than oxygen it will push it out the tubes it you get your setup correct with release holes, some even weld SS and Ti in purge chambers similar to a small sandblast cabinet.

As for Ti to SS I wouldn't bother - can be done but the process is very extensive and use a lot of Argon for shield to protect containment

I would just stick with SS to SS and Ti to Ti - some of the tig fillers they are making are getting better like the Ally to Steel

Welding titanium with other metals presents great difficulties due to embrittlement caused by the formation of intermetallic phases. Numerous tests to join titanium with molybdenum, tantalum, silver and vanadium by the TIG process without filler metal have resulted, with the exception of vanadium and silver and with niobium and hafnium, in welds of limited ductility.

Welding steel with titanium is very difficult due to the low solubility of iron in alpha titanium at room temperature. When titanium is welded with steel the intermetallic phases TiFe and TiFe2 form, which are very hard and brittle and prevent the production of technically useable welds.

One way to achieve ductile welds of steel and titanium is to use intermediate layers of materials capable of being welded with both titanium and steel, without brittle phases occurring. One such material is vanadium. Titanium/vanadium/steel joints have been produced successfully by resistance spot, electron beam and diffusion welding.

In the same way, initial plasma overlay welds using titanium grade 2 and grade 12 on HII boiler plate have been carried out successfully, with intermediate layers of copper.

Niobium is suitable for intermediate passes to produce serviceable copper-titanium welds, while silver has proved successful in the production of aluminum/titanium joints.

In most cases a loss of strength in the weld must be expected.

Slip joints can be annoying but work ok, if you don't need to remove exhaust too often.

Another option would have been to either source the flanges either bolt type or v band whichever suited your muffler, if they were not available in Ti off the shelf for your application then either machinist to spin some Ti or a lasercutter to cut the bolt style then you could simply have them tig welded in Ti to suit.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...