Jump to content
SAU Community

The Great R33 Intercooler Dilemma


Pr0x1mity
 Share

Recommended Posts

Actually looking at that graph again the 68mm line is deceiving as it's not peaking at the same high boost as early in the rev range and that's probably why it looks to be falling away from 160rwkw.

The 100mm Takashi cooler clearly hits the wall at around 260rwkw of airflow though, and starts losing out to the PWR cooler from 180rwkw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Higher boost will:

1. Increasing boost will increase the cylinder pressure (how can it not?)

2. Increase the intake temp

3. Lead to higher chance of knock/detonation, far more prominent with 98 Octane PULP vs 105 Octane United E85

4. And potentially, show more in efficiencies in the intercooler system

In relation to point 4, think about wind resistance, or rather the power to over come it, is velocity^3 (If my memory is correct) - so it's not linear, and as such I would not expect an intercooler pressure drop to be the same from say 15psi to 25psi if the core itself is reaching it's limitations.

1. Run less timing, more boost.

2. Get a better FMIC

3. Run less timing

4. Yes, but safer way to tune, get a better FMIC

Back to my point, you just can't say "Running 25psi on PULP? That just be asking for trouble IMO. Most people keep to a more sensible 18-20psi and turbos that hit the sweet efficiency there"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your argument about 25 psi of boost is relevant but is probably confusing the point a little.

It may be easier to think of it as the airflow limit of the intercooler... By using a larger turbo you could run into these same issues at a lower boost purely because the cooler can't flow the required amount of air.

You can see from the above graphs, the 68mm cooler starts being a restriction (compared to the other two) at only 160 rwkw of airflow... That really is quite significant and I imagine most people that have that brand of intercooler, would make some decent gains by swapping it out.

Yeah without a doubt.

You are adding more heat at 25psi on small turbo than 15psi at big one, either way.

There is definitely a bit to consider here, and its a good topic, that's for sure. Money does tend to get you gains in this space (where other times it won't).

The Blitz has always done well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. Run less timing, more boost.

2. Get a better FMIC

3. Run less timing

4. Yes, but safer way to tune, get a better FMIC

Back to my point, you just can't say "Running 25psi on PULP? That just be asking for trouble IMO. Most people keep to a more sensible 18-20psi and turbos that hit the sweet efficiency there"

Yeah I can, you're much closer to the edge of knock/detonation - that point is irrefutable - due to what I outlined.

Sometimes it's not just a case of pulling timing (loads of factors involved).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually looking at that graph again the 68mm line is deceiving as it's not peaking at the same high boost as early in the rev range and that's probably why it looks to be falling away from 160rwkw.

The 100mm Takashi cooler clearly hits the wall at around 260rwkw of airflow though, and starts losing out to the PWR cooler from 180rwkw.

Indeed, looking on my phone I hadn't noticed that...

Well spotted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have a much greater chance knocking with more timing than more boost less timing, provided your IAT are lowish.

Most tuners would choose loads of boost and low timing than loads of timing less boost, provided the turbo can provide enough puff.

Saying you can't run more than 20psi on 98 is incorrect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the results I've posted earlier. the High boost reading is the boost pressure before the cooler. The lower boost reading shown boost level after cooler measured after the throttle body is the actual boost level.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a Blitz return flow for my GTT. Plenty of people making great power with them. I'm sure it is much nicer internally than a ling long brand (including Cooling Pro).

It is possible that return flow piping has a bit more backpressure and puts a turbo out of its happy zone, as jet_r31 said. But if it does, you'd have to be on the edge of the efficiency cliff regardless, I would think!

Generally speaking, boost is purely a measure of restriction, it doesn't tell you how much air is flowing through the engine simply how hard the turbo is trying to shovel air in. That's why a big turbo running 15psi produces the same power as a small turbo running 20psi - the small turbo has a flow restriction in the turbine which causes backpressure, and you need to shovel more boost into the intake to make up for that turbine backpressure. The big lazy turbo lets all the exhaust gas flow out easily and consequently doesn't need to try as hard shoveling air into the intake to flow the same power. The big turbo will also heat up the air less (due to the lower boost), and since there is less backpressure the end gases leave the cylinder more easily and you get a better gulp of fresh air for the next compression cycle (which also gives you more power - your VE is better because you just reduced an exhaust restriction with a bigger turbo). Same reason why external gate produces more power - the gas flow arrangement is much better than an internal wastegate (which is a compromise for cost and compactness).

If you ran a pressure sensor on your manifold upstream of the turbo you'd see how much total exhaust restriction (including turbine) your engine is pushing against. Correlating FMIC pressure drop, exhaust backpressure, boost, IAT, timing, and power is a complex undertaking though, there are a lot of variables and you need to only change one at a time to understand what's going on.

Tao has put some interesting information up about his experiences with different cores and piping but the simple fact that others are making great power with return flow coolers means you can't categorically say that return flow ruins your change of making decent power. There is a bit more going on than that.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The point is that people running turn flows are making OK power still but have noticed a trend of changing to a true front mount and making a decent bit more.

300kw OK in my daily, but we're going to find more. The setup made 383 on E85, however I have a 25/30 with VCT adjustable cam gear and such so we'll have a fiddle. I still need stronger valve springs and to get some cams reground.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...
On 11/27/2015 at 6:05 PM, kingtube69 said:

My Blitz made 289kw yesterday - Told it was a restriction because the pipes run on the hotside of the engine. I would probably end up going Plazmaman in the next couple of months to be honest.

Hate to revive this old thread so I apologize. King were you running stock piping on your setup at the time you posted this or was some of your tubing getting sucked shut like I've heard it can on high boost and had to be replaced?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...