Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just purchased a 99 gtr vspec and am having an issue when i come onto boost starts at about 4.5k rpm and gets worse as u accelerate. it feels like im losing traction and the cars rear will kick out to the right. i plan to taqke it to the shop to get it looked at but was just wondering if anyone had an idea of what it might be. It may be something as silly as a boost leak or something, ive come from an sti and ive had boost leaks before doesnt feel anything like that tho car shakes and feels like its jerking back and forth throughout the rev range. car is completely stock no mods other than pirelli p zeros all round no engine work done. if i let the boost build up slowly it wont freak out and cause the problem only when i hit full boost it will start ripping up the tyres and sliding out. ive checked for boost leaks spraying on ic pipes etc but no luck so far locating the issue could this me a afm issue or something to do with the air/fuel raitos? the restrictor pill was removed by owner in japan and is running 1bar.

sorry if this was a silly question or has been answered elsewhere, i just cant put my finger on it!

(not trying to troll )

Edited by v-specjay

Have you considered that you are now driving a RWD biased AWD car and it could actually be losing traction at the rear simply because it is losing traction?

There may or may not be an alignment problem or worn bushes or subframe mounts etc etc that might be causing it. It doesn't HAVE to be coming from the engine end of the car!

If its standard as you claim it shouldn't be doing that.

But if its modded.....fully sik. :)

On a serious note, my GTRs rear use to come out under power, she would crab walk, ended up being the subframe bushes were leaking and i put some alloy C rings in place to stop it, she went straight after that.

Itsat standard vspec height its sitting on original suspension also yes it still has original coil packs. I will have to look into the subframe bushes hopefully something turns up..n yes gts boy i understand that its not a full time awd but this is not just simply breaking traction due to power from the rears its more like when i come on boost imagine like fuel surge bunny hops and makes the car break traction and jerks the car forward and backward similar to what youd feel when you have a large boost leak..soo frustrating!

It could be the ATTESA system that also activates the rear A-LSD on a R34 V-SPEC needs bleeding

Either way it sounds like the car has some issues, best off getting it to someone that knows these cars so they can give it the once over

  • Like 1

If boost (positive pressure) Is only coming in at 4.5K rpm on standard turbos you have issues... Are you sure this is the case as per your post???

**edit** i think i misread due to punctuation... You are on boost, then at 4.5K rpm you have traction issues

?

Edited by djvoodoo
  • Like 1

It could be the ATTESA system that also activates the rear A-LSD on a R34 V-SPEC needs bleeding

Either way it sounds like the car has some issues, best off getting it to someone that knows these cars so they can give it the once over

Oh i forgot about the fun bundle that the A-LSD is.

Itsat standard vspec height its sitting on original suspension also yes it still has original coil packs. I will have to look into the subframe bushes hopefully something turns up..n yes gts boy i understand that its not a full time awd but this is not just simply breaking traction due to power from the rears its more like when i come on boost imagine like fuel surge bunny hops and makes the car break traction and jerks the car forward and backward similar to what youd feel when you have a large boost leak..soo frustrating!

Ever experienced axle tramp?

  • Like 1

Yep the tyres are all the same size, i think it sounds like axle tramp, never experienced it before but sounds on par with whats going on with mine. Thanks guys and

  • XKLABA i will have to check out the attesa see if it needs bleeding. Could be a combo of all of these things just helps to narrow it down a little.

Cheers for the info guys ill report back after a once over from my mechanic if anyone is curious as to what the problem was.

If a stock R34 GTR is breaking traction it has a 4WD problem of some sort, or very very shit tyres, if it has a 4WD problem and is a V-Spec it will most likely have an A-LSD problem to

A small air pocket won't kick a code but will slow down the operation speed of the diff and 4WD

Lol. How can it break traction and jerk back and forth.

Axle tramp is like a hopping sensation in the back.

Sti and gtr are WORLDS apart in how they drive

yep im not exactly sure mate feels like a little of both at the same time im assuming it has something to do with the attesa ill take it to croydon see what they make of it

If a stock R34 GTR is breaking traction it has a 4WD problem of some sort, or very very shit tyres, if it has a 4WD problem and is a V-Spec it will most likely have an A-LSD problem to

A small air pocket won't kick a code but will slow down the operation speed of the diff and 4WD

ye exactly it feels like the torque is being split up unevenly or delayed, i have a feeling your on the money.

Edited by v-specjay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...