Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

so now im trying to make my dream car come true

and i want something super fast lets say 400-450 HP this is all on RB25DET

so up until now i have these parts not yet installed

1- Greedy style manifold + 80mm Throtel body + Fuel Rail

2- Aftermarket Turbo 50 in size

3- NGK Iridium BCPR6

4- RB25DET Gear Box

5- r32 diff + Cusco adjustable Toe control rods +aftermarket full adj suspension

6- Blue pin OEM ECU (r33)

7- 3" Intercooler + HKS SSQV Blowoff

8- Tomi Fuel regulaitor + Oil Catch can + Comtic Headgasket 1.3 - 87mm Bor + AEM 320L PH Fuel pump + Oil dumper

9 - Apexi SFAC 2 + innovate Wideband + Turbo boost controler digital

so what i would like to know what am i missing, what are the things that i purched wrong and it will not have any effect

ah and 1 more thing does the nismo gauge cluster spedo 300 fits the cefiro a 31 ???

i appreciate all the help before i blow my Engine ^_^

Thanks again

Loy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463148-rb25det-best-performance/
Share on other sites

If money is tight sell the following to buy things you really need:

Greddy style manifold, 80mm throttle body, fuel rail, unknown turbo, OEM ecu, Tomei fuel regulator and all of 9

What you need as a minimum:

Link G4 computer + mac valve for boost control OR PFC + Z32 AFM and boost controller

Decent turbo with (if necessary) wastegate mounted on stock manifold.

Assuming you are running on petrol some 550 side mount injectors

3in turbo back exhaust

Probably a set of new OEM or Splitfire coils.

Good intercooler (you don't say what kind you have)

Good tune

  • Like 1

NOS... two of the big ones.

But seriously, your tune must be good. Try an aftermarket ECU

Thanks Mate im trying as hard as i can to get good numbers

You are missing.

Decent turbo

Proper engine management.

I guess so

You need a decent throttel body...

But yeah, Turbo, ECU, Exhaust.

Maybe E85 if it's available?

It's hard to find one here :(

If money is tight sell the following to buy things you really need:

Greddy style manifold, 80mm throttle body, fuel rail, unknown turbo, OEM ecu, Tomei fuel regulator and all of 9

What you need as a minimum:

Link G4 computer + mac valve for boost control OR PFC + Z32 AFM and boost controller

Link G4 is really costly + no good tuners around

Decent turbo with (if necessary) wastegate mounted on stock manifold.

​any brand recommendation ?

Assuming you are running on petrol some 550 side mount injectors

Yep Nismo 555cc

3in turbo back exhaust

can i stick with 2.5" (to keep it quit as possible)

Probably a set of new OEM or Splitfire coils.

I'm trying to get those

Good intercooler (you don't say what kind you have)

aw sorry the intercooler is Apexi

Good tune

Hard to find one around

  • Like 1

Got more details on the Turbo 50?

I hope this will help

  • Intake Inlet/ Outlet: 4.000"/ 2.625"
  • Compressor:
  • Trim: 60
  • A/R: .70
  • Inducer: 60.30
  • Exducer: 78.00

    Turbine:

  • Trim: 64
  • A/R: .50
  • Inducer: 67.00
  • Exducer: 58.80
  • 2 weeks later...

ok guys after a few days of searching i couldn't come up with a clear answer for this

i wanted to upgrade my engine injectors so i found some good names

like 550cc nismo - 750 denso - 650 bosh aside for that

what is the right one to chose for my application i mean to have a sweet 400+ without risking

oh and i've changed my ECU and i bought Link G4+ (GTRLink) ....

I have a S2 RB25DET. It makes +-340hp on 0.9bar and just over 400hp on 1.2-1.3 bar boost. Supporting mods are the following:

Garrett GT3071R 0.82AR mounted on stock manifold with external Tial 38mm wastegate

76mm exhaust with 2 Magnaflow silencers

600 x 300 x 76 Autobahn 88 intercooler

1000cc DW sidefeed fuel injectors fed by a Walbro fuel pump, stock FPR

Stock intake manifold with front-facing standard throttle body

Greddy Type RZ blow-off valve

Mishimoto R33 radiator, Nismo thermostat and SPAL electric fan

Rear head oil drain, winged and baffled sump

Link G4 Xtreme management

AEM water & methanol injection

I forgot to add that it makes full boost by 3100rpm in 4th and 5th, about 3800rpm in 1st gear.

Edited by Skylinefreak1

I have a S2 RB25DET. It makes +-340hp on 0.9bar and just over 400hp on 1.2-1.3 bar boost. Supporting mods are the following:

Garrett GT3071R 0.82AR mounted on stock manifold with external Tial 38mm wastegate

76mm exhaust with 2 Magnaflow silencers

600 x 300 x 76 Autobahn 88 intercooler

1000cc DW sidefeed fuel injectors fed by a Walbro fuel pump, stock FPR

Stock intake manifold with front-facing standard throttle body

Greddy Type RZ blow-off valve

Mishimoto R33 radiator, Nismo thermostat and SPAL electric fan

Rear head oil drain, winged and baffled sump

Link G4 Xtreme management

AEM water & methanol injection

I forgot to add that it makes full boost by 3100rpm in 4th and 5th, about 3800rpm in 1st gear.

Thats a cool setup but again 1000cc ....

i just bought the 550cc from nismo and i will try to hit this number and i hope i can

for the turbo money is tight to buy one of those Garrett GT3071R monsters any other brands recommendations ?

i will not replace the intake manifold hmmm lets see what will happen

but anyway thanks mate

Get 800cc power enterprise dropin injectors.

Adaptronic plug in Ecu would make tuning alot easier. It supports 3 bar map sensor so no AFM

ATR43SAT Ceramic Ball bearing Rb Bolton turbo. That makes 20psi by 3550RPM 4th, maxed at 424rwhp internally gated on P98 fuel.

Ok, this is the important bit, or you won't make my power:

4 inches induction pipe

PWR 600x300x81mm cooler

3.5 inches turbo back exhaust.

a Good tune

Get 800cc power enterprise dropin injectors.

Adaptronic plug in Ecu would make tuning alot easier. It supports 3 bar map sensor so no AFM

ATR43SAT Ceramic Ball bearing Rb Bolton turbo. That makes 20psi by 3550RPM 4th, maxed at 424rwhp internally gated on P98 fuel.

Ok, this is the important bit, or you won't make my power:

4 inches induction pipe

PWR 600x300x81mm cooler

3.5 inches turbo back exhaust.

a Good tune

Price on atr43sat cbb if u don't mind telling?

Power Enterprise injectors are absolute junk Tao!

At that rate you might as well get Five O junk too lol.

Better off with Nismo 740cc injectors and be naughty and set the base pressure at 3.5 bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
×
×
  • Create New...