Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey gents, have done a little digging into trying to find out about actuators after a member here suggested I fit an R32 Actuator or HKS Adj Actuator to increase my boost slightly (min 10psi to 12psi max).

Was wondering how I could go about making the purchase I.e where I can grab one, how difficult it is to fit etc for the both (have read the HKS might not be so flash at 10psi)

Running stock boost, only modifications I've made so far are an Apexi Power Intake and Splitfire Coils. Starting out small but enjoying myself! Still planning to upgrade to a catback as part of my stage 1 noob mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463360-noob-advice-for-actuator-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

if you're going to spend HKS money, you could also consider a turbosmart adjustable unit, which are much better quality units with better tension points and come with a set of different sized springs to set the psi, rather than a screw/spring tightener system that the hks and garrett units have

the point of upgrading the actuators on a stock turbo is only if you are running increased boost pressure, it is beneficial to have an adjustable wastegate actuator to be able to deal with the increased exhaust back pressure. this allows you to hold peak boost for a longer period, where the stock actuators which can't maintain the increased boost pressure will taper off at peak boost

upon googling, i found this good tuning guide for a stage 1 upgrade

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTT.htm

all the best

I wouldn't do that on the stock ECU, R34 GT-t have a pretty premature TP Load cut.[/quote

Rule this out then? I'm not even going to entertain the thought of the next stage of mods I.e ecu, injectors, tunes etc.

Just wanted to see if there was a viable way to increase by boost by 2psi

Run 10psi on a cold evening in a R34 GTt and it will hit the TP Load cut.

Rather spending your efforts on a good turbo back, a good intercooler then focus on more boost when you can afford a Nistune or better.

^^^ What Johnny said. There is no 'quick fix' way to magic up power reliably, start with some planning so you can do it once, do it right.

Well there is. If you follow my suggestion you will get the extra couple of psi OP is looking for without spending a cent.

Fair enough. Will it run ok and with safe AFR with no tune?

I cant see why it wouldn't. its just a simple bleed off which is exactly what a manual boost T controller does.

surprised I haven't seen this method posted before.

Fair enough. Will it run ok and with safe AFR with no tune?

I did it to my car when it had an RB25DET and it gave it a little more zip with no adverse affects. A mate at work did it to his Stagea and gained a little. Not the same as a massive turbo but it doesn't cost anything.

I did it to my car when it had an RB25DET and it gave it a little more zip with no adverse affects. A mate at work did it to his Stagea and gained a little. Not the same as a massive turbo but it doesn't cost anything.

Are you forgetting that the stock boost of the R34 is 7 PSI. This is just bypassing the 2 stage boost solenoid to run the full 7 PSI from 3000 RPM. He will have the same boost even after doing this mod......unless he drills out the restrictor hole.

Edited by duffmansbrew

only issue with SK's method or a MBC is he will need an aftermarket boost gauge to see how high the boost is.

drop in a known working R32 actuator and eliminate all stock controls and you have a reliable 10-11 psi.

whats the point of raising boost a few psi on stock turbo, last time i drove with stock turbo i wanted to burn the car, big 10kw's is a waste of time, just follow the normal route which is exhaust, boost controller, intercooler, turbo, computer blah blah

raising boost on a stock exhaust is gay. .. sorry

Edited by AngryRB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...