Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My picks to suit various budgets - it is more important to change every 5000kms / 6mths whichever comes first, more so than a more expensive oil over a longer interval.

Under $30 - Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 10w 40 - solid performing semi-synthetic (refined mineral base) only published figure is the TBN of 9.02 (solid for 10,000km intervals) and good pour and flash points.

Over $40 - from light to heavy 40w oils - Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, Nulon Fast Flow 10W40 and Penrite HPR10 (10w50 extra 10 which is just a strengthened 40 weight) - all use a Group 3 refined mineral base, however they improve on the Gulf Western oil by meeting the synthetic standard of ACEA A3/B3, as well as many euro extended-interval standards such as Mercedes 229, and BMW ll-04.

Over $80 - my pick would be Redline's 10w 40 standard motor oil, which offers IMO the best combo of detergent for street, and high temp/sheer resistance for performance (HTHS of 4.4, compared to the Shell which has a rating of 3.68).

All these oils have a good combo of cleaning detergents / high-temp/sheer performance - IMO the difference in competency isn't alot over a 5,000km/6mth interval of street/spirited driving.

Factor in track time and extended change intervals, and the more you want to consider a higher priced oil like the Nulon, Penrite and Redline.

Edited by squareznboxez
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463681-best-oil-to-run/#findComment-7699233
Share on other sites

Penrite 10 tenths racing, Motul 300v or Mobil ultimate allround performance.

Those 3 oils are one of the best out there for turbo charged cars. Viscosity is obviously dependant upon engine mods, driving conditions and weather.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463681-best-oil-to-run/#findComment-7699334
Share on other sites

Penrite 10 tenths racing, Motul 300v or Mobil ultimate allround performance.

Those 3 oils are one of the best out there for turbo charged cars. Viscosity is obviously dependant upon engine mods, driving conditions and weather.

Agreed these are out and out performance oils, however they are designed to be run on track at high temps with high sheer stability (which is good), and then changed after each event - the result is the detergent package in these hi-performance 'track oriented' oils is usually poor and not ideal for day-in-day-out start/stop accustomed to a street car

the 300V is now specifically a track-oriented oil, with very little detergency for 5,000km/6mth intervals

the Penrite 10 tenths isn't far behind however they should have some street manners - my pick is still the HPR10, but the 10 tenths does have a Group IV PAO basestock, where the HPR10 uses a Group 3 refined mineral base

Edited by squareznboxez
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463681-best-oil-to-run/#findComment-7699508
Share on other sites

Agreed these are out and out performance oils, however they are designed to be run on track at high temps with high sheer stability (which is good), and then changed after each event - the result is the detergent package in these hi-performance 'track oriented' oils is usually poor and not ideal for day-in-day-out start/stop accustomed to a street car

the 300V is now specifically a track-oriented oil, with very little detergency for 5,000km/6mth intervals

the Penrite 10 tenths isn't far behind however they should have some street manners - my pick is still the HPR10, but the 10 tenths does have a Group IV PAO basestock, where the HPR10 uses a Group 3 refined mineral base

I did a little research based on what you said and 100% agree. Motul 300v is track oriented.

To the OP, i stand by the Mobil ultimate all round performance as its one of the best oils out there made for high performance cars. Its more expensive (around 100 dollars for 5litres) but its pretty damn good. To put it in perspective, i have been told a few guys have used this oil in their old ferrari's and its never skipped a beat.

HPR is also pretty decent. My mate is running penrite Everyday fully synthetic in his G6E turbo which is pushing 330rwkw.

You shouldnt really go wrong. Ive tried different oils in my evo ranging from castrol edge, motul 300v, penrite hpr, penrite racing, mobil ultimate all round etc.. and by far mobil was the best for daily driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463681-best-oil-to-run/#findComment-7699770
Share on other sites

I did a little research based on what you said and 100% agree. Motul 300v is track oriented.

To the OP, i stand by the Mobil ultimate all round performance as its one of the best oils out there made for high performance cars. Its more expensive (around 100 dollars for 5litres) but its pretty damn good. To put it in perspective, i have been told a few guys have used this oil in their old ferrari's and its never skipped a beat.

HPR is also pretty decent. My mate is running penrite Everyday fully synthetic in his G6E turbo which is pushing 330rwkw.

You shouldnt really go wrong. Ive tried different oils in my evo ranging from castrol edge, motul 300v, penrite hpr, penrite racing, mobil ultimate all round etc.. and by far mobil was the best for daily driving.

You're on the money with Mobil 1, based on many UOAs (used oil analysis) in the US, this has proven to be a very, very competent street/track oil

Although they have changed to a refined mineral base but extremely competent additive pack making the overall product possibly better than the previous Group 4 basestock version

The RRP of $105 is a lot of money though, and i think there are better street oils out there like Redline, Amsoil and select Elf.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463681-best-oil-to-run/#findComment-7699802
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...