Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And think about your driving......is a GTR and the extra 2 wheels driving really necessary?

I admit they are attractive machines but if you don't track and except for a few mountain passes of 10-20Km all your driving is on wide open roads, you don't need 4wd for 99% of your driving. If its track/race, status or resale then a GTR is the go. If its not then no use paying for what you don't need, a Gtst/GTT is fine, on a typical highway you will not see the difference behind the wheel. Remember Australia is wide and flat with big distance and lots of straight roads.

And think about your driving......is a GTR and the extra 2 wheels driving really necessary?

I admit they are attractive machines but if you don't track and except for a few mountain passes of 10-20Km all your driving is on wide open roads, you don't need 4wd for 99% of your driving. If its track/race, status or resale then a GTR is the go. If its not then no use paying for what you don't need, a Gtst/GTT is fine, on a typical highway you will not see the difference behind the wheel. Remember Australia is wide and flat with big distance and lots of straight roads.

I went from a 32 GTST to a GTR -

Admittedly it's a pretty unsuitable system for normal road use as it requires traction loss before it engages but it nevertheless does come in handy in wet/slippery conditions. Amazing how many times I've looked down while driving in a straight line in the wet and notice the 4wd gauge moving.

But yes 4wd, rb26/ twin turbos etc do add complication.

I do not track, but have a heap of grunt and would hate to have my GTR as RWD, I could not have half the fun as I do with AWD.

Even went further with it, put in a Quaif front diff and a couple of extra plates in the trannie ,it had a 2-way back diff. It is great on all surfaces and puts it down real good.

Give it some throttle , no spinning and wobbling all over the place, feels great around the twisties, it just gets down to business and nothing is wasted, luvit :)

  • Like 1

^^^ yeah now tell all how much it cost........lol. Not to mention the heartache from trials and tribulations etc Prob owes you a private island in the Pacific complete with Hula girls by now!!! :rofl2:

Its all to do with priorities........

  • Like 1

^^^ yeah now tell all how much it cost........lol. Not to mention the heartache from trials and tribulations etc Prob owes you a private island in the Pacific complete with Hula girls by now!!! :rofl2:

Its all to do with priorities........

But that's not talking about buying a Skyline, it was about RWD Vs AWD, I am sure there are plenty of blokes that think exactly the opposite to me and you do not have to do what I did to my driveline they are pretty good without all of that crap and expense .

You have to get your priorities worked out and just buy a GTR if your pocket will allow, but whatever you buy , do your homework , I wish I had my advice, 20 X 20 hindsight is great, LOL :yes:

  • Like 2

But that's not talking about buying a Skyline, it was about RWD Vs AWD, I am sure there are plenty of blokes that think exactly the opposite to me and you do not have to do what I did to my driveline they are pretty good without all of that crap and expense .

Yes but they're so much better with diffs and transfer case/4wd mods!

Lol

And Even Nissan realized how bad a combo it was and canned it

Nah the marketing team were happy with all the attention and I'm sure the bean counters saw the books and flipped out lol

Yes but they're so much better with diffs and transfer case/4wd mods!

Well I hope so, or I wasted 6 months susing stuff out and having it installed :/

Apart from my shitty suspension and bushes , around twisty stuff there is no problem and feels strong, but when you go hard in a straight line it is shit when the road is uneven and had to check my undies when I got home a few times !

Have some MCA X-Comfort coilovers going in after the school hols and the bushes replaced , so I guess I will find out in a few weeks the difference it makes. But the MCA coilovers look to pretty to hide under the car :)

Just buy a GTR, put a massive turbo on it and thrash the fk out of it daily.

Even if u bought it 20k and had to spend 30k on it you will still have a supercar for less than half the money of a all the hi-tech rubbish that's out now.

There is not one car under 100k that can even come close to the driving experience of a GTR.

Shoot me down, I don't give a shit, but for value for money in regards to performance, driving pleasure and overall experience, you can't get better.

  • Like 2

Just buy a GTR, put a massive turbo on it and thrash the fk out of it daily.

Even if u bought it 20k and had to spend 30k on it you will still have a supercar for less than half the money of a all the hi-tech rubbish that's out now.

There is not one car under 100k that can even come close to the driving experience of a GTR.

Shoot me down, I don't give a shit, but for value for money in regards to performance, driving pleasure and overall experience, you can't get better.

^^^^^^^^^ This

I have had over 25 cars in my life and the GTR is the most fun outside the bedroom , nowadays, including the bedroom , LOL

You can stick your massive Turbos, I will have something more drivable, more torque, more TORQUE!!!!!!!!

^^ Hardly

There is no other way of putting it. GTR's are dinosaurs now. And they show their age. You really do have to love them to put up with them. And you will struggle to find someone that enjoys his car more than me. But you have to be realistic.

Legit the only reason you would buy a 32/33/34 and mod the crap out of it to drive it on the street is because of nostalgia. value for money wise you can get much more these days.

  • Like 2

And think about your driving......is a GTR and the extra 2 wheels driving really necessary?

I admit they are attractive machines but if you don't track and except for a few mountain passes of 10-20Km all your driving is on wide open roads, you don't need 4wd for 99% of your driving. If its track/race, status or resale then a GTR is the go. If its not then no use paying for what you don't need, a Gtst/GTT is fine, on a typical highway you will not see the difference behind the wheel. Remember Australia is wide and flat with big distance and lots of straight roads.

I went from a 32 GTST to a GTR -

Admittedly it's a pretty unsuitable system for normal road use as it requires traction loss before it engages but it nevertheless does come in handy in wet/slippery conditions. Amazing how many times I've looked down while driving in a straight line in the wet and notice the 4wd gauge moving.

But yes 4wd, rb26/ twin turbos etc do add complication.

Just to cover my experience on this as i have also had both a gts-t and a gtr.

the 4wd system in a 32 is actually very well balanced with a couple of mods, and in my opinion, is better than the 33 and 34 system. A new G sensor really wakes it up, i have lost count on how many times the 4wd has helped my car even on the street. Due to how many roundabouts we have it really opens up. Not to mention that you can throw more power at them even in a straight line. My car is effectively factory optioned, with an ECU. Running -7's and E85 it's making just shy of 340kw. And i see the 4WD come on quite often, and my god it does make a difference to the feel of the car. Especially when going up hills.

Now in saying that the way i look at GTS-T vs GTR (remember this is just an opinion)

If i wanted a Dyno queen i would build a GTS-t. Stroked RB30 with a big f**k off single and job done.

If i want a car that drives beautifully on the street, that needs to cover all sorts of bases (hills, twisties, straights etc) i will buy the GTR. Now yes as RBN1 said it does add complication, but realistically at under 400kw the complication doesn't come from the diffs or turbos. It's just the oil issues. If you get on top of those in a 26 you are usually ok (lol jokes i've had sooo many issues)

TL;DR if you want a car with heaps of power, just build a GTS-T. If you want a car you can properly drive, build an R.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...